So I am am going to be running my 16g for this summer but would like to upgade my turbo for next year.
I have done some googling and most posts that were helpful are really old
So curious what the current opinion is on what I can get for my goal of 450hp that will spool the fastest.

Answers i found were 3052, green and 20g
Most people seem to like the 3052 even though it was more expensive at the time

HX35 in the BEP bolt on housing is hard to beat in that area.

Thanks Jason, will need to keep my eye out for that!

I too have been trying to figure out a good turbo for the 400-500 hp range but with good spool and I haven't got it yet but I am going to be ordering this Kinugawa turbo . Use your 16g center housing and exhaust wheel and upgrade the compressor wheel and housing should keep spool good but flows way better and not as expensive as a whole turbo upgrade.

I know a guy selling a gt3076r

How did you find this Luke? Google says there turbo stuff doesnt have great reliability

LOL Jay I think that is too big

Honestly I can't remember how I stubled across it I think it was after I blew my T3/T4 turbo and was looking for rebuild parts for it and then realized I could make a Mitsubishi turbo bigger and better for a good price why not try it. I've got a couple 14bs and 16gs kicking around I could try with. I also got a FP turbo rebuild kit to redo the turbo before I put more power to it.

Also most of the bad review I saw were for the complete turbo from kinugawa being not as good because of Chinese knock off and the bearings wearing out. We are using the genuine Mitsubishi and good FP stuff for the center housing just using their compressor housing and wheel.

Bryan
A gt3076r is perfect street turbo. Hits full 35psi around 3500-4000rpms. And hits like a punch in the face! Holds boost strong right past red line. And made 511 to the wheels withuch more to go. And has just made ran a 10.9. Infact.. Another gt3076r won 3rd place in the dsm/Evo max effort at the shootout a few years ago. And that's a test of autocross and dragracing.

Well i wish you luck!! Hopefully it works great!

Why you not running it Jay?

I would if I had the money.

By the time you spend $189 USD + shipping, assemble it, get it properly assembly balanced(I don't care if it's component balanced, it needs to be done as an assembly for proper reliability), you're in at nearly the cost of an HX35 with proven reliability. The TD05 turbine and 7cm housing is going to choke a 60-1 compressor wheel. I just don't think you save anything in the end.

You have a 6 bolt head right Bryan? Just get a Cyclone intake, will help with the spool of any turbo you end up picking. You can set it up easy with wastegate opening at certain pressure or do an RPM switch.

Thinking the same thing Jason.

Yes sir!! Haha, that might work!! Will have to see what I can find!

No experience but if your looking for fastest spool & 450 whp, one would think something like the 68HTA should be worth a look.

If you have more funds & don't mind a bit slower spool but the potential to make more power if your goals change, the 3052/3076 options are an amazing all around turbo. I ran the 3052 for ~6 years, no complaints. Only swapped because someone wanted the turbo & twisted my rubber arm so I could get a DSM 82 HTA (current turbo have had it 6 or 7 years now). In comparison, my first turbo the evoIII16g kept me happy for 2 years.

Forgot about that guy!! Alex was supposed to give us his review and some log comparisons. Alex if you can share that would be great!!

Hm, I will look into those but I am thinking I want to stick to that 450 area and then working on improving other stuff on the car. Thanks for the suggestions, I will definitely take a look

My bad for not sharing update, well i blew my 7bolt motor so game is over for me this season. We're also likely be moving this summer so i don't want to start big projects and deal with a move in the middle of it.

Regarding internally gated 68HTA, it held 29psi to red line at 7500rpm on stock motor (spiked to 33psi). If goal is to run 25psi or less, i would keep evo 3 16G as it spools 300-450rpms sooner (Mine held 23.5 psi at 7500rpm internally gated (Spiked 29psi).
One noticeable difference with 68hta is that it will not run out of steam passed 5500/6000 like evo3 16g did. In my opinion, gains over evo3 16g are not that significant to purchase 68hta if you already own evo3 16g. I would consider FP Red or Green if i was doing it again.

Few notes regarding installation of 68HTA, when used with OEM/EVO3 Turbo manifold and O2 housing, you can still bolt on factory OEM shields (upper and lower) which is nice.
However, OEM turbo bolts will bottom out before hot side is sealed against manifold, i had to use thick washers to compensate for that. The alternative to that is to use FP manifold with their bolt kit.

Hopefully i will be back on the road soon i missed the feeling of RAW power in DSM

sh!t man sorry to hear that. What happened?

Good to know! Thanks!

I was running aggressive timing on e85 & high boost 68HTA, just got addicted how nicely it pulled when boost kicked in Few weeks ago I WOT going up-hill in 4th gear and boom!
I will post pics soon.
Regarding main topic of this thread (450hp Fastest Spool). 68HTA will be able to accomplish that goal. Externally gated 68HTA could squeeze even more

Sorry to hear. Hope the damage is minimal, unlikely as that is....

Hopefully head survived and Reza's (chiefs special evo1 trans) is repairable.



When engine blew, it sounded like a metal grinder for a few seconds...and than all lights came on the dashboard....and i was gliding in complete silence with clouds of smoke visible in rear-view mirror.
Luckily drivetrain didn't lock up and I managed to cost of the highway quietly and peacefully. Thankfully no flames, i was outside ready to battle it with fire extinguisher in hand, there was still lots of smoke everywhere (even coming into the cabin from air vents) but luckily no flames!












^When "metallic debris" rained down south into the oil pan, they pushed my transfercase down and cracked trans bellhousing.
There is hole on the block facing the firewall, that's where oil and coolant came out from.
I'm sure there will be more damages once engine comes out from the bay but that is not going to happen until after the move to a new place.

Looks like you reached the torque limits of the 7 bolt rods.

I think that bell housing can be repaired from what I can see.

I would have the turbo taken apart and cleaned too before running it again if you didn't have the inline filter.

sh!t man! Hopefully your trans is all good, I agree with Jason, just need a good tig an it can be fixed.

Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully all it needs is a little weld and output shaft from the trans is intact.

My car Project Midnight Put down 387.5 (HP) @ 5600 (RPM), & Torque = 368.2 (lb-ft) @ 4900 (RPM) On a Mustang Dyno Boost was @ 30 psi The 68HTA flowed 52.4 lbs/min =) On 91 pump Gas & Meth. I could have probably squeezed another 10 to 15 WHP out of her but hey all we have is 91 octane pump gas here in Nova Scotia.

This little 68HTA Continues to impress me

Project Midnight Mustang Dyno

Alex hopefully you can salvage all the pricey pieces. I know what you mean when your engine suffers catastrophic failure in one of these babies. It’s a weird serial feeling after all the power, exhaust and breaking engine part sounds go away. Then just coasting along in almost complete silence.

Also what kind of WHP numbers was your car putting down with that 7 bolt motor on E85 before you blew her up?

I finally took the motor out and also took it apart. I will be updating by build thread this week with pics.
In terms of power, i was running on pure e85 with timing degrees above 20. DSM experts concluded i exceeded torque limits for stock 7 bolt rods. My last log in link estimated 498 hp at 31.8 psi.

I’m currently running the FP HTA68 on a 1G 7 bolt stock motor and fp2x cams. When I ran 27 psi it made 420whp... with issues. It’s currently running pretty strong, hopefully I can get it in for a Dyno session sometime soon at dynotuneracing. It’s running a conservative 30 psi with meth injection. I’m hoping for the 450 whp range with my setup.

I would tune for lower torque in the mid range, that's what keeps the 7 bolt rods happy.

I can only guess but I believe my car would put down some wear between 420 to 430 WHP on a different dyno. These Mustang Dynos are known to be stiff or read a little lower then other dynos.
I Don't think I will be trying to force any more power out of my stock 7 bolt
She has had a good run 30 + psi since 2011 and still ticking, lifter ticking that is
The last compression test I preformed on her was 150/150/150/150 psi.

Tomorrow morning I will be drag racing all day on the abandoned run way behind 12 Wing Shearwater For the MP's Race the Base charity event.
I wonder how much more punishment my engine can take before she gives out on me.

But back on the main topic Brian I defiantly recommend you go with the 68HTA with an external waste gate and if you have access to 94 octane pump gas+meth you should be able to obtain the power levels you seek if your car is mechanically sound with an efficient setup of course.

Thanks Kent! Got some choices to think about

Or you could get this baby =).

XR DSM 61-56 Ball Bearing Turbocharger

Compressor wheel - 76HTZ
Flow rating - 61LB per minute
CW Measurements - 54.8MM Inducer / 76MM Exducer
TW Measurements - 56.5MM Inducer / 53.5MM Exducer
Compressor Housing - 84MM Flow Advancement Port
Turbine Housing - FP Cast Stainless 9CM
CHRA - 8MM BB

This bad boy would land you over the 450 WHP no problem =)

Damn that thing looks fantastic, maybe out of my budget though!! Haha

Bryan, I'm considering buying an hta68 to throw on the motor I bought from you. Maybe we can find a good deal on buying two turbos!
Are you looking to buy new or used? What's your budget?

i maybe be selling mine next month. Want something bigger for my next motor

I am up in the air about new or used. I would need to find a pretty mad deal if I went new cause I have no issues with getting it rebuilt.
I am pretty made up on that I will be going with the hx35 with bep cause its a great option and I have one available locally.

But I am always open.
I also not planning to do anything untill the end of the season
As for budget, for sure less than 1000

If the deal is good enough, I'd consider going in on a 3-turbo order of 68HTA's. I'll reach out to Robert and see what he can do. Since I'm in Detroit for work I can get then sent to me. Would you guys want the oil feed lines and whatnot with the turbos as well? Internal gate or external? I want internal, personally.

This would be a holdover for me for a few years till I get a TS T3 HX35.

Sent Michael an email. Will report back with his reply.

I asked for 3 x FP 68HTA (DSM) with standard compressor cover, internal wastegate, and oil feed/supply line w. filter.

If anyone else would be interested, let me know. I can take care of purchasing (USD) and shipping (my US address) and you can pay me back in CAD. I regularly go from Detroit to Toronto/Richmond Hill, so anywhere along that corridor would be easy for a meet-up.

Sure Sal!
Yeah I would want the line, but am I crazy thinking 100$+ for that line is steep?
Filter I would want, better to be safe than sorry there.
Internal for me too

Nice!! Thanks Sal!!

Journal bearing = better off with no filter. They need high volume of oil and if it becomes restricted, your turbo is toast anyway. Gaetan (red 1g from Quebec) just lost a freshly rebuilt turbo due to a tiny piece of silicone getting in the filter and blocking oil flow.

Thanks Jason. So no filter for me than.

They do have a large orifice filter specifically for journal bearings (check their website), but no worries if no filter desired.

Currently he's at $925 USD shipped/each, with line + filter. Working on getting that to $875/piece, and then it would be even less if no filter. I think RTM does/did sell a similar oil line, so you can explore that option if there is one.

Gaetan had the large orifice one for a JB turbo. My theory is, if you have particles large enough to damage the turbo floating in your oil, you have much bigger problems to worry about.

Google is telling me if your not running a BS than you need a restrictor as pressure from the housing is going to be too much, or are you planning to run from the head Sal?

Bryan, FP's page on the 68HTA specifically states it must be fed from the OFH. It need a lot of a high zinc oil to stay happy. Best bet is to run a -3an line from the OFH and the 2g oem drain, as it's bigger. If you happen to notice and smoking then you can add a restrictor but for the most part, this combo will work fine, unless you have insanely high oil pressure.

Interesting, ok so in that case definitely will pass on the fp one as the is -4.
Thanks Jason

I have a BSD and pretty high pressure, but I could always try the - 3AN and see how it works out.

Best he can do is $750 shipped, per turbo (w. internal wastegate).

Normal price on it would be $999 + $50 for IWG, plus shipping, so about 1075-1100 per turbo.

If you want to make this happen let me know and I can facilitate it. It works out to just under $1k CAD.

He might be able to do even better, i got mine for 629.00 internally gated plus 31.67 shipping (Invoice Oct 2015).
It was an ongoing sale that last for several months. It may have been related to parts availability and, if i recall correctly, not all parts were actually made in house.
That's what i remember but i could be wrong, it's been a long time ago.

He can't, or certainly isn't willing to at this point. I've gone back and forth a fair bit on the subject... The reason they were so cheap for a while is they had a huge surplus of parts and now they've got the opposite issue, which is exacerbated by the fact that they use the turbine wheel in a number of different turbos. Also, that purchase was 3 years ago, but always a good reference to have...

What's your timeline like Sal? As i mentioned I am in no rush at all.

I'm not in a rush, but I don't think it would be ideal to sit on this for months because I don't know if he'll honour it too much down the road. I hadn't originally intended to go to something between the Big 16G and the HX35, but with the Malibu restoration in full swing and a full hot kit for a TS T3 being super expensive, it may make more sense to do it this way.

As I mentioned, I can have them shipped to me and provide a favourable (relative to the banks) exchange rate...i.e. market rate