Haha!! I remember when I was chasing down those front control arms. Rob just beat me to the punch.
That's exactly where they're from. Glad to see everyone is having a good time.
Winter 2018 - Brembo install on the Spyder. I'll be making a new trunk floor for it this summer. The OEM one can't take any weight. Aside from that, I'm not sure what else need to be done... Oh! A few paint touch ups, the front bumper as well as a hood replacement.
I suppose I could continue to fight against those small leaks in the roof rails.

Finish the engine bay / install motor on the spyder.
New top
New Tires
Reupholster seats
and more im sure...

Currently sits looking like this:

And you know...finally get the x-brace behind the rear seats re-welded

Edit: fucked up this post. Lol

Well if you really want them just send me an offer via PM


Brembos are really nice, can't wait till i see pic your of car with them installed. Regarding weight, in oem setup the spare tire keeps the floor leveled and flat. Without it it will just sag down of course. I just got bunch of light foam panels in mine. Does the job for now.
Regarding paint, i think all DSMs with factory paint needs that by now. Imagine if we would could do a group deal with Deep Man's shop


Congrats, looks really good. Who did seats reupholstery for you? Also, how much does it cost?


^ Fix it...let's see what you got

You pretty much nailed it Alex.

Fix it.

My only goal this season is to get back on the road.

Finish my FMIC and I piping.

SMIM.

A bit of wiring to go.

Should be good this season!

Just been busy with my union welding program.. That's right, I'm back renewing my CWB and guess what??

I'm the new instructor!

Wow cool dude! My uncle and I are both looking at getting a tig welder, so we were talking about that on the weekend.

little late to this one but.... i started working with jeff yost this year and hes been whoring parts out and ive been buying stuff off of him almost every pay lol

2g

FP Green with a polished compressor cover. needs a rebuild but i'll get that done soon enough...
all new 3" turbo back exhaust
custom o2 housing for tial wastegate
F.I.C. 1050cc injectors
walbro 255 pump
aeromotive FPR
misc gauges wideband new boost gauge and oil pressure
new wheels to replace my enkeis
finally install my vrsf fmic tial bov 3'gm maf and translator


1g

clean up the outside of it. good compound and buff to bring back the white
stereo
fix idle surge problem
put my enkies on this car
get rid of the eibach prolines and replace with coils (destroying my back 1 bump at a time lol)
possibly cold air and exhaust not much you can do on the N/A's

Devon.. The only thing you can do with NA... Is Nitrous!

3'gm maf and translator + F.I.C. 1050cc injectors = not much fun tuning.
Your spending a bunch of money why are you not going link? or some other tuning option

Yeah skip the MAF-T. We're not in 2006 anymore. You'll be perfectly fine and have the thing run much better on the stock MAF, it will support an FP Green. Do link regardless, and you can always go to SD if you want.

Well, looks like I'm cutting into my frame rail to get at the rear subframe bolt that busted through its cage and is now spinning causing me grief. The other 3 came off fine.

Dropping my rear subframe - sandblasting and powedercoating everything + rebuilding/replacing all the rear suspension bits (shocks/struts excluded) as well as doing the rear (active) toe delete.

Emptying and dropping my gas tank and repairing the sending unit studs and cleaning up any surface rust.

Fixing any broken bolts in the rear (not many yet, but there will be as I work my way through the back plastics as it's mostly untouched since new).

Replacing ebrake cables.

Nice work Sal, did you get the slugs or are you doing the toe delete another way?

How are you fixing the stud, welding?

Let me know how the ebrake goes, that sh!t was a bitch (i never got it out)

Can you not use am oxy torch and blow it out?

Haven't decided what I'm doing for the toe delete yet. Don't really want to pay the Jay Racing price (which is ridiculously expensive) but I don't have access to a machine shop anymore to turn my own. May go the old school washer solution but not sure yet.

As for the gas tank studs, I will likely use the 'RTM Repair kit' but may fab up something else.

Ebrake...hoping it's not too bad, especially with the whole rear end, driveshaft, and exhaust out of the way. The cables aren't seized or anything and the calipers work fine, but the 'nub' on the end of the right ebrake cable broke off so there's nothing holding the cable into the caliper anymore so I'm just gonna replace it all.

As for the rear subframe bolt/stud, I will cut open the frame rail and likely weld a square 'washer' on the new bolt/stud so that it cannot spin in the frame rail. No oxy-acetylene torch is blasting anything away near/on my frame rail if I can avoid it - plus I don't have one in Michigan anyhow (where the car is on jack stands right now).

Yeah I hear that, if you can get the measurements I am sure we can make it happen.

Let me know how that repair goes!

I couldn't get my cable out of the car itself, there is recess in the body that holds the cable in place.

I will do what I have to to get the ebrake cables out/in. Most of the interior is out of the way already (all the seats/seat backs) and more will be coming out soon so they're coming out one way or another.

Yeah with out the arm rest there you might be able to easily punch it out.

im only running the 3" maf and translator because i got it so cheap and i dont want to spend a shitload on link+speed density is it really that much of a pain, i do have the black box ecu with mine being a 99. and i was told thats tune-able ?

Devon.. I have tried 3 times to get a maft to work right... 2 of them are sitting in my basement collecting dust. Just get link... Or find someone to show you how to tune the black box.

Link gets my vote. With a green and 1050's you really want better control then a 3" and translator.

Fixed Sandras brokem stud

Nice work!

You really aren't supposed to use the raft for anything bigger than 650s
It's not a total loss though, you can use the maf directly with link.

Not even. You can sell the MAF-T for like $100 if anybody even buys them anymore and put the $100 towards other mods. Or use that $100 towards SD, which new will cost you about that and is far superior.

If you don't want SD, stick with the stock 2G MAF. You will not overrun it with your average 50 trim setup. If not, go with the Evo 8/9 MAF which is basically a direct replacement on the 2G. You'll suck the honeycombs out of it before "overrunning" it, and you certainly will not do either on an FP Green.

Regardless, ditch the MAF-T for the sake of your DSM.

No one really buys them anymore, it took a long ass time to sell mine. SD really isn't too hard to tune just time consuming and as Lucian said it's not that expensive.

Link is where you should be spending your money, it's a worth while investment.

DSMers, i finally finished my winter build. Yesterday i took her for a test drive (3rd time) and she's finally passed it this time. No leaks and no squeaks.

Here is what actually was completed over last 4-5 months:

- Engine transmission and transfer case rebuild (Thank you Reza) (done)
- Install OIL Cooler with EVO 3 OFH (done)
- Install aftermarket PS cooler (done)
- EVO 3 intake manifold and EGR delete (done)
- New OEM fuel filter (done)
- Shrouding for FMIC (done)
- Reseal oilpan to stop small oil leak. (done)
- New clutch: SouthBend Endurance Stage 3 Kevlar disk (done) (Act 2100 with 6 puck sprung bye bye)
- APC front upper control arms (done) Front Camber is zero degrees now (Thanks Mike and Rob C)
- Replace front subframe with new OEM (done)
- Replace power steering rack and replace PS lines. (done)
- brand new OEM PS pump (done)
- Install hella horns (done)







Looking forward to DSM/EVO SHOOTOUT this summer

Looking great! So where did you install the horns? I was looking at this the other day, but still deciding on a clean location to put them.

The hella horn kit came with two horns. I installed one on each side (passanger/driver). Drive side was the easiest but for passanger side i had share few brackets with my oil cooler installation (my oil cooler is on passenger side).

Much easier to see that explain. Here are few pics:
Driver
Passanger:





Each horn is pointed towards the bumper opening so sound is not trapped inside.
Let me know how are you end-up doing it.

Gorgeous car and great work Alex.

I have a 2Ga Talon front bumper but I'd love to see some detail in how you shrouded your FMIC.

Ben

Always beautiful to see the upgrades on your car, tastefully done as always

Ben,
Thanks for your comments.
Shrouding is basically modifed version of OEM 2Gb Eclipse shroud(all models). I trimmed it just enough to cover FMIC and i kept sides a little longer to fill in gaps on sides of FMIC. I finished the job with aluminum tape to ensure air can't escape except via condenser and radiator. I still use OEM plastic reinforcement bar and it clears over shrouding just fine. See the pics:

Thanks Gui, i always get pumped with joy after reading comments like yours

Did you only shroud the top?

On mine.. The rad sapport acts as the lower shroud.

Yes sir, didn't need to do the bottom because 8AN oil cooler hose runs below FMIC. Other small areas were filled with soft pipe heating foam.

Nice! Actually almost identical to what I did minus the foil tape. Good idea. I'll definitely be adding that to seal it off. I did the same on the sides, left it a little long and slit the corners to allow it to open up around the edges of the FMIC. Not a very tight seal though so I'll be adding the foil to give the air only one way to go, across the rad.

Nice work Alex, looks beautiful!!

You have been far more productive then I have, here is my list now.
-weld vband on to other side of cat and end of downpipe in car
-do the same for test pipe
-find tps plug and wire in (found 2, first guy bailed on me, waiting for the 2nd guy to send)
-change drive shaft (tcase has been drained already so might as well throw in my fresh ujoint one as the ones in there are cracked)
-fill all fluid
-prime engine
-do snow drifting (unfortunately I doubt it will be ready in time for that but we shall see)

I should probably start on this sometime soon.

Sandras 1g is running smooth! And a ton of fun in the snow!