So I might be creating an issue that doesn't exist, or chasing my own tail trying to get values to line up that never will. Regardless, I've been gathering info for like a week now and I've got questions that I can't find answers for.

I'll start by saying the tune it's on now I get 14.7 at cruise and idle, WOT the mix goes where it should also. (The numbers I'm referring to are the ones on the WB gauge). In link my fuel trims are also where they should be.

Over the winter again, I was learning as much as I could to better "dial in" my numbers to make the car daily drivable and get some better performance. One video I watched he explains how he uses WBfactor to get AFRest and WB to match by moving MAFcomp. - here is where my first question is: if my car is in a WOT scenario and the WB shows 10.5 but AFRest says 16, what is really going on? And which is right? the WB factor in said scenario is around -20% which getting them to match would mean less fuel?! (Moving MAFcomp down)
Also: looking at ECM101 it says NOT to use AFRest to tune your car?

Next question

In relation to getting the WB and AFRest to match would mean moving MAFcomp. So I went back and started at idle, and then started chasing my own tail... I'm trying to get my airflow/rev to .24. Mine sits at .20-.22 (no cams)
I can get it pretty much there by moving MAFcomp up and then getting dead time Right to get the STFT close to 0%

And then in relation to that: I used the suggested calculations for my injectors and reset fuel trims. I then found at idle trims were 0% but when I blip the throttle kinda simulating a cruise STFT seems to go -10%


So which way is right? Is my car perfectly fine running the way it is (WBfactor being off) or should I be making those match and ignore what my airflow/rev is at idle?

Bit of a read but any DSMlink gurus that can answer a few unusual questions would be great! Thanks

What version of Link are you using and I assume you're running a MAF (and not SD) based on your post. Is this correct?

I'm about to leave work so I don't have time to fully read everything or write out much but off the bat, your WB should ideally match your AFREst at WOT or under any Open Loop conditions. At the end of the day, what's most important for the health of your engine is that the WB value is where it needs to be but if the WB and AFREst don't match up then changing your Fuel tables will be more of a guessing game than actual accurate tuning. Same goes with Boost and BoostEst, as this also affects your fueling.

Yes I'm running V3 and using GM MAF with translator.
My thinking then is this: if I pull the sliders down to get WB and AFRest to match... My WB will still hit the same WOT goals but pull that AFRest down thus adding more fuel?
And ignore idle airflow/rev since everything else lines up and fuel trims are nice?

is your mafclamp on?

No Jay my MAFclamp isn't on. I think speed density might be in my future. After reading some of the flaws with a GM MAF with translator.

I was able to get out tonight to get a few cruise runs in and just looking at the fuel trims, where the AFRest and WB are they just aren't where I'd want and expect them to be.

I can't help but think the answer lies in my injector set-up, global and dead times. And like before they look great at idle but I'm not as happy with it on cruise. Maybe it's something I just gotta fiddle with and get more experience at to learn the finer details and little tricks to figuring it all out.

I dont have much experience with links control of the gm maf.. but I have read it behaves better with the mafclamp on.

Can you still run a stock maf? Have you tried switching back?

Kyle, you also don't need the translator.

What do you have it set as in Link, 2g maf? if not that's what it should be set at if you are using the translator.

But as I stated above thomas and team added direct support for MAF so you don't need the translator.

Also post up a log so we can take a look

you still need the $80 cable.

Jay - I don't think MAFclamp will help me, from what I read it'll help with hz above 2000. Maybe if I didn't have I have the stock MAF but really don't wanna do that. I'll live with this until SD.

Bryan - yes I've got it set up as a 2g MAF which is the way to do it but, causes issues as the ecu assumes its way up front of the cone and not 9 from the throttle body. And like Jay said, $ for that cable I'd rather throw at SD.

I'll throw up a log later today. What you use to host?

Yeah I think the whole SD setup can be head for the price of the cable.

I host on dropbox for logs.

This is a beast of a cruise. I think I was idling and making slider changes at the beginning. So skip to 1/2 way through the log if you want to see numbers that reflect the set up

https://www.dropbox.com/s/333v1a7m8iapi7i/long%20cruise.elg?dl=0

Hope the link works. Worked for me in the preview.

I would go back to srock maf just to rule out the airflow as a problem. SD is not a bandaid... and is much harder to dial in... if you have issues already.

So with that find Jay here's where there's confusion - that article you brought up speaks about MAF not MAF with a translator. The MAFcomp at 2700-3000Hz is like WOT and I'm guessing pushing seriously hard. But the thing about turbulent air I get and the flaws of using a MAF in the IC piping

I don't feel as if I'm having airflow problems. If I make changes in link I can easily see something happening.

My initial concern when I made this threat was how to get the AFRest and WideBand to match while still maintaining good fuel trims.

And my other question about what mixture is my car actually running if wideband says 11 and AFRest say 14

What firmware version are you running?

Wideband is always correct. Your afrest and wideband should be matching at WOT, by adjusting your global. This should affect your fuel trims during idle, that should be your deadtimes.

Ok, this is how it goes (any maf or SD). To tune the idle set the proper airflow per rev (0.25 -0.27), make sure fuel trims are in check +- 3%, next is a cruise tune (all condition drive highway too) ,in that log you have not exceeded 60km/h. Before cruise tune is done it's good to extend close loop operation ,you do that in (open loop thresholds tab )Finally wot tune , before tuning wot, set the (target- desired afr) in open loop max & min oct tables (current 9.5 afr , if you running 94 you can change it to 10.5-10.8 afr )than you make a pull ,analyze the log & look at wb factor at each hz point & make appropriate changes in the maf comp tab . http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/v3mafadjcombft read this, especially advance usage portion . Btw sd is as easy to tune as maf .

maybe.. but the GM maf is a differant. And is well known for issues. Im saying switch to 2g maf cause its free. and should run stock map if hes still stock. I dont think investing into the sd adventure ois the way to go.. untill hes running smoothly on a maf.

You must be adjusting the sliders to incorperate an issue weather it be a 20psi boost leak or an unstable maf at high hrtz.

i would agree with jay if you have a 2g man laying around than I would go with that and see what everything looks like. when was the last time you did a BLT

2G DSM 2700hz 320 lps (680 cfm) 375 gm/sec (50 lb/min) . Unless you trying to go more than 50lb/min = about 500hp I also would stick with 2g maf & anything over I would switch to evo8 maf (good for 66lb/min or switch to sd .

Just trade me your Spyder for my Accord. Then you don't have to worry about tuning MAF the Accord is SD.😆

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dptrx7c5emaqo1p/new%20idle%20wb%20match.elg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1joriscb8f5lqkl/new%20idle.elg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o14wf7oe2dgl09x/cruise.idle2.elg?dl=0

OK so, the first link is to a log where I made the WB factor 0% but airflow rev is down.

The second link I made the airflow rev where it should be but WB factor is crazy.

Third link is a quick cruise. If it's the right one, at 155 of the log WB factor is close to AFest but they're lean. But the STFT is 16.8%

Sorry had to break it up into 2 posts, kept crashing. ..

I could go back to stock MAF but BOV.. So I really don't wanna. Haha

For the bacon lettuce tomato I found most of the bits to make one and I'll get the rest on the weekend. Side note: for measuring air wouldn't the TB be the only place to throw off numbers?

My firmware is a firmy 3.18.47.

And I plan on being the last DSM owner in Ontario.

See if you can upgrade your firmware they changed up how afrest is calculated might help might not...

Oh and good luck be the last owner. ..I'll steal yours if I ever lose mine 😆

scrap the GM translator and ECM Tuning GM Maf direct cable from them, LinkV3 support GM Maf direct now

Or take it one step further and just go speed density and ditch the gm maf completely.

I still vote for stock maf.

Ditch any mafs. SD all day

Jay Stacy sorry man, can't got back. Although I could do it, vented BOVs sound so sweet!

Rob - I'm going to scrap the whole thing altogether. Like JD and Curtis said, speed density for days!

Gotta admit between sweating buckets outside and having a to do list out the wazoo, hasn't left me much to help the cars performance. It will happen soon tho, eTest due in a month and I would think it'll need some minor tweaking.

I hope to make the switch before seasons done but I daily my car so adding it to the winter to do list is probably more likely.

1 hour and you are golden. You can always make it pretty later

I could never understand the open atmosphere sound addiction. .. my 1g is maf with recurculated boV. .. and it's clear as day!

You have to vent to atmosphere to run SD

You don't have to. Lots of high power turbo cars run SD stand alones and still recurculate.

But I'm saYing that people go SD just to vent to the atmosphere and get that sound.. yet I recurculate with a maf and still get a loud boV sound.

I still recurculate. And run sd. Venting seems like a waste of good air to me.

For me it was just to clean stuff up, recircing was a pain in the ass for me so I went for vented.

I scored a brand new Tial Q in the box for $150, so VTA it was lol.

Fak I paid like 4 bills for mine

Got my Blitz free from a profitable partout!