Much better!! What color did you go with, little hard to tell from the photos.

Thanks Bryan
I went as close to OEM looks as i possibly could

Color: 827-Grey Plush Cut Pile


No other options selected

Hmmm, this would be a way to get my all black interior that I want.

Yep you can do that



You can even request sample to be mailed out to your address in Canada at no charge

Too bad. I can't find the Pornstar red.

Workin on the 1g today.. I dont think its many years left. Ill sell you its pornstar interour when its done.

Gents I think most of your know the story of my stock 7 bolt (fresh rebuilt) which ended it's life on April 30th 11:37AM 2018.
Few notes about motor that blew:
- Balance shaft delete
- New OEM pistons and rings
- OEM 4 Layer headgasket
- L19 Headstuds torqued to 90lbs


Here are few pics of damages to bring everyone up-to speed:











She ended with bang going uphill in 4th gear (full boost) followed by the moment of silence.
This motor was running E85 with fairly aggressive timing, zero knock. The excess amount of torque most likely contributed to stock rod failure.
However, this motor held pretty good for almost 3 years and kept me smiling in boost.

The journey is not yet over with my red Talon. Some of you may remember my 2nd DSM the 1999 Spyder which ended as parts car.
The motor from my Spyder is revised 7bolt and it has been sitting in storage for 6 years until it's day. Here is that motor today:















Motor has been taken to my local machine shop, same shop that rebuilt my stock 7 bolt.
My goal with this motor is to built it strong and be capable of 600-700 crank HP reving to 8500-8700
So far i'm leaning towards the following parts (bottom end only). We'll discuss head shortly after.
- Balance shaft delete
- Wiseco forget pistons 9.0:1 C.R
- Manley Performance H-Beam Steel Connecting Rods (ARP 2000 bolts)
- ACL Race "Tri-Metal" bearings
- Reuse L19 head studs
- Reuse OEM main bolts
- stock crank

I'm open to suggestions for bottom end. Feel free to share your opinion and suggestions
Thank you

That little bit of engine damage will buff out

Looks like a strong build!! Excited to see how you make out!!

Can't wait to see it on the road again, I have no doubts it will be an absolute beast

Thanks guys,
Can anyone confirm the following combo will keep my rotating assembly strong up-to 700hp
- Wiseco Standard forget pistons 9.0:1 C.R
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22130
- Manley Performance H-Beam Steel Connecting Rods (ARP 2000 bolts)
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20097

I could use HD Wiseco pistons for a little more but they're available only at 8.5:1 C.R or 10.0:1 C.R.
Considering the rods i have and my power goal, should i go with Standard Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0:1C.R ...............OR .............
WISECO EXTREME DUTY "HD" 8.5:1 C.R
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=21469

What do u guys thing? i don't want to learn i made mistakes after motor has been put together
I trust your input more than anyone else outside of this board

I believe If I am not mistake the 2618, a low-silicone aluminum Pistons expand more during engine warm up so piston slap till she is warm but they can take more abuse. I would go with
the 4032 alloy as it is stiffer and has less thermal conductivity and expansion.
It has been a while since I have assembled an engine but I know for a fact I would do a little research before buying the pistons they typically come in 2 different alloys one expands more then the other so the tolerances have to be different for them.

And remember to have the engine block examined before purchases because there is probably a restocking fee if you don't get the right size pistons. .20 over .40 over .60 over

I would go for the 4032 forged pistons for something I would be daily driving.
But if you plan to feed this thing constant abuse go for the 2618

If you want to spend the money would go with Manley's I beam or other similar rod if you want to build it once to last at that power level. I know a few guys running the Oliver and Pauter rods, they're pricey but they're strong as hell.

I would stick with either a 8.5 or 9.0 CR piston, in case you ever move away from E85, 10.0 is not going to be too happy on 91-93 octane.

I was just about to say get I beams.
If you start messing around in the 700 + WHP area.

I would take higher CR personally assuming you want a mean street machine, although not sure how big a difference that makes.

I had a spreadsheet with some info on building, let me see if I can find it tonight

I would also go ARP every thing

Thanks Kent, i learned that on my first engine build I no longer buy pistons/rings and bearings until l hear back from my machine shop


^ Thats above my goal but having extra headroom is always a plus




^They're sure are expensive, double!. If i go that route than i will defiantly need Wiseco HD pistons. Should be a really nice combo to max out 7bolt crank/block but pricey.


^ i was leaning towards 10.0:1 but since i'm flex fuel 9.0:1 or 8.5:1 will be my choice.


I think i've seen it when i did global search but feel free to share it once u find it. 10.0:1 could cause headaches with knock even on e85. I hate knock! ... especially in middle of pull/race and that check engine light comes up. There're also reports of knock between shifts on 10.0:1 even on e85



^ I learned from this board that ARP is not always better than OEM. Only few of their products with one of them L19 headstuds beats OEM



Just to wrap things up, i feel i have a good combo for my goal around 650-700 crank hp
- Wiseco Standard forget pistons 9.0:1 C.R
- Manley Performance H-Beam Steel Connecting Rods (ARP 2000 bolts)

But if i want absolute max power(700+) it would be:
-Manley I-BEAM STEEL connecting rods
-WISECO Extreme Duty "HD" 8.5:1 C.R

That's super interesting, I see Jason comment too about pump gas and 10:1. So 9:1 seems like a great option for good torque but still tunable.

That's for sure!! Plenty of issues with their exhaust hardware.

Good call, that would be the way I would be going! As a side note, those are the pistons in my block and probably the same rods (though shandon only mentions Manley Rods) and this was conservative at 650 with gt35r

Have you considered ceramic coating for the pistons? That was recommended on my 9:1 build for some extra safety margin, and I went with it.

Alex I am confident all of their heads stud are stronger then OEM.

But if the OEM main bolts are better do you have a link or some more information that proves they have more tensile strength then the ARP mains?

I did not actually. Why would manufacture not do it in the first place? Is it really make that much of a difference?

I do not but it's based on real practical knowledge from this board. It's been proven that regular arp head studs don't offer any strength advantages over oem head bolts. I dont know about main bolts but i haven't heard of engine failure because of oem bolts

The oem 6 bolt head bolts are quite strong, not much of an upgrade going to the ARP 2000 studs. The 7 bolt are a different story, they are smaller and a different type of bolt.

Rod and mains I would definitely consider ARP hardware for a high HP build. It's well known a lot of 7 bolt rod failures stem from the oem rod bolts stretching.

One place I do not use ARP is in the exhaust, while they are strong, the material they are made of ends up galling very easily and quite often destroying threaded holes. The SS studs for the head to exhaust manifold have a bad tenancy to loosen, so I stick with OEM here as well.

I'd say the piston does its job and it's not their fault if you have pre-ignition due to another failure or error.

^Thanks Rob. I will look into that.



So my new rods will come included with arp 2000 hardware.
Now what about OEM main bolts ?
How simple of a job to upgrade to ARP main hardware? Is this something my machine shop could do and possibly screw up? any bore alignment required ?

Side question, what is "OP" next to my avatar/name means ?

^^^
You are the Original Poster of this thread.

That means he is the MAN ! Don't mess

HA! I like


^posted by extremepsi

Just to keep everyone in the loop on the progress.
Here is the latest list of upgrades for my 99 motor

Block:
- Mahle Pistons forged Alloy: 4032 with 9.0:1 compression ratio
- Manley H-Beam steel connecting rods
- King XP Tri-Metal Racing (main/rods) bearings
- Fel-Pro PermaTorque MLS Head Gasket
- ARP Main Stud Kit (PENDING, prefer to use OEM bolts if they can hold upto 600hp)

Head:
- GSC stage 2 cams
- re-use Brian Crower Valve Spring & Titanium Retainers
- re-use ARP L19 headstuds torqued to 90lbs

Feel free to recommend anything

Nice

I found a good read about the 2 different piston material

http://blog.jepistons.com/2618-vs.-4032-material-differences

^That's a good read...now i'm even more split between the two haha

So in the nut shell, 2618 Race piston is aprx 15% stronger that 4032 and if anodized could last as long as 4032(which is what Rob C stated earlier)
The only remaining disadvantage is heat expansion due to low silicone in 2618 which apparently cause piston to slap against cylinder wall on cold starts until normal engine operation temperature is reached.
Talking to JD, he does not even hear piston slap on cold start.
So in real life applications, how big of deal is that?

If clearances are done correctly it can help a lot with piston slap.

Can you elaborate more on that please?
Are these clearances defined in the specifications sheet included in the pistons box by manufacture.
Is this something i can instruct my machine shop to ensure it's done correctly?

Yeah exactly, the clearances are defined in the spec sheet so as long as the machine shop gets them on the tighter side of spec you should have minimal issues with piston slap.
You may not be able to completely eliminate it but with the closer clearance you should be able to reduce it, and as you know it will stop as soon as its all warmed up.

These guys have an interesting chat on the topic
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generati...ted-my-piston-slap-cold-start-knock.html

Thanks Bryan,
Just go a call from machine shop about my 99 block.
Block is in good shape and rebuildable. It's time to order parts

For your viewing pleasure. 99 block today:





To align hone the block will cost 300 extra ...

Do you plan to paint or powder coat the Block ?

How much money in total are you looking at for your short block assembly ?