Not gonna lie, like that lip better than mine! Curious, what's the price on one?

Thanks Stephan, still toying with it. Just too much going on at once these days. Hopefully soon i can boost happy.



I thought there was still one left in Guelph no?



Thanks Bryan!



Thanks Jason,
The fitment is PITA on all Carbonetics products. With mine being warped as it was i don't feel its worth more than a hundred bucks. There is some serious stress on my bumper and splash shields to keep this thing straight.

They usually prefer to sell them as a kit which includes front and side skirts. The price started crazy high as 600 but quickly fell by half as we started to negotiate. Mine turned out to be flat black while demo car had CF texture which i didnt know until i unwrapped few days ago.

Here is preview of front and side skirts:


I'll be making a trip home (got rescheduled again) in the spring so i could bring what you need.

FP 68HTA turbo has arrived...

Sorry, missed that the first time. As far as I know, the only station nearby that had E85 was just outside Guelph on the way to Cambridge; they stopped stocking E85 a few years ago. Bit of a catch 22 up here: due to the rarity of E85 filling stations, nobody uses it on a regular basis. Since nobody uses it on a regular basis, most stations can't afford to stock it.





When's it going on?

Wicked!!

Alex can you do me a favor and take a WOT log before it goes on and then after, super curious to see a nice direct comparison between this and the 16g as I am pretty convinced that I will be looking for one of these come next year.

Like to see that also.

It will most likely be several months before it goes in.
Right now I am trying tune SD which is so far been frustrating especially trying to line up wideband to estAF for WOT and POT (partial throttle). I suspect my RTM 95lb injectors are a bit hard to control. Thinking about switching to FIC high Z 1100/1600cc once budget allows.

Once my DSM is dialed-in than I'll start mixing more E85 and cranking boost to the top. I really want to max out my 16g first before switching to 68HTA




Defiantly, i do plenty of logs anyway. I log my car every time drive just like Terry S. lol

If you're going to run E85 I would definitely recommend going higher than 1100cc. Injector Dynamics 1300cc would be an excellent option for maxing both the 16G or the 68HTA on E85, whilst retaining excellent idle and cruise/partial throttle characteristics.

Kudos for having the willpower to not bolt it on this week I think you'll be happy that you've decided to make the switch to E85 and get the issues smoothed out before going to the new turbo.

+1 for before/after logs. I think lots of people here would love to see a direct comparison between the 16G and 68HTA.

So i had a problem with driveshaft yoke. When i had my engine removed i damaged the yoke by leaving it wet (unintentionally) by doing all the cleaning and power washing. The surface on the yoke developed rust quickly and ate away some of the metal. At first, i tried cleaning it out with sand paper but that proven to fail anyway. Always protect the yoke after removing it from the transfer case! I learned that the hard way

Overall it was a PITA to replace it while working under the car with driveshaft attached to the chassis.



^ here you can see surface damage caused by rust on the yoke.



^ The leak spread oil on my down pipe. It smelled like crap


^ New yoke with u-join and new caps. Also replaced output shaft on the transfer case.



^ Extracting yoke out of the drive shaft



Pressing caps onto new u-joint and yoke with the help of the bench vise

Not looking forward doing that again anytime soon. Thankfully the yoke leak is history now

And the good news:

- Replaced stock crank pulley with Fluidampr pulley (the one i got during black friday sale). 6Bolt guys be aware you need to trim plastic lip off your lower timing cover for it to fit. On 2G it still touches the cover slightly but i left it as is and it works.

Doing U-joints under the car is definitely a pain, but it gets much easier with a bit of practice. Of course, it's something you hope to not need to practice

Everything is always so clean in your working pics! Well done



Weird.. I never had to trim anything on mine.

It doesn't actually take long to remove the drive shaft completely, a lot easier to do u-joints in a vice or press...I own a Dodge, done plenty of them in my time lol.

I replaced my yolk once for the same reason. Now whenever I pull the engine, I just leave the t-case on the driveshaft sitting together on the floor.

As soon as I pull my tcase off I coat the yoke surface in white grease for exactly this reason. I do it with all surfaces that might need it (axles, yoke, etc.).

Nice work Alex!
Yeah super clean for sure!
Did you run into issue with crank pulley bolts not long enough? I was hearing that some found it was corrected.

Thank you sir! Keeping things clean is one of the important keys to DSM success. I learned that from members on this board.



When i opened the box the first thing i saw is this:


and then i google it and got to here:
and saw this:




I have defiantly thought of that but went the other route of removing transfer case and keeping driveshaft in place. If i had more clearance under the chassis than i would just removed the driveshaft.



^ Good calls on that. I'll keep that in check for next time


Good thing you brought that up because bolts can defiantly be an issue.

Here are the OEM bolt you dont want to run:

and here the proper longer bolts:


I didn't know about the bolt until pulley was installed. So i went and checked my pics and confirmed i used the proper bolts. I also went back and checked my invoice and confirmed that ExtremePSI sent me the longer bolts even tho i ordered stock OEM bolts ... which is really good. Longer bolts worked well with stock pulley so i didnt even notice the difference.


Here more info on the bolts.

Just want to clarify things here. Fluidampr indeed revised their design, and their new harmonic balancers should work perfectly with the OEM bolts. Unfortunately things like this are one of those parts that can easily sit on a shelf for a few years, so it sounds like you got one of the old versions, Alex.

The reason I bring this up is that when I bought my Fluidampr, I got the longer bolts with it and, being the idiot I can often be, installed it without checking. A couple days later, my balancer seemed loose, so I tightened the bolts. This caused my crank sprocket to fracture. The longer bolts, if used with a revised balancer, do not have enough threads on them, and the shoulder will poke out past the balancer, preventing you from being able to fully tighten them down.

Long story short: Some Fluidamprs have a thicker-than-OEM hub, some do not. Don't repeat my stupidity; check before installing.

Intresting but same longer bolts worked fine with oem pulley.

Here is closer view of fluidamp pulley



^ can anyone confirm if above is old or new design please let me know.

And you're usually one to do things the easy way...
I initially tried to swap the yoke under the car and it resulted in nothing more then swearing and crushed knuckles... Removing the whole thing also showed me that my lobro joint boot was badly damaged. Damn those things are pricy.....

I knew what I was up-to since i rebuild my entire drive shaft few years back. As Jeremy pointed out, "it gets much easier with a bit of practice", with the right tools the u-joint came off without much of a fight. Plus all my u-joint caps and C-clips are still fresh and only few years old

Ah, that would do the trick... I was removing 20 year old c-clips and cap ends....

The time has come to say " good bye " to good old favorite Mobil One 10w30. I started worrying that mobil one was not protecting my ACL bearings due to low zinc/phos contents and maxed-out EVO 3 16g.

Going first with 10w30 but will toy with 20w50 next. I may also drop synthetic, will see.







After all work was done, both of my Mitsus were admiring the view outside

I think its a waste of $$$ in a DSM. Regular Castrol 10w40 works for me.

If my issue is bearing failure im even going back to oe bearings and maybe castrol synthetic

Manny, I am 99.99% sure you spun a bearing due to a lean condition. Bearings just don't fail. If there was something wrong with a bearing it would show up on the first start of a new motor. The shock caused by knock/detonation acts in the opposite direction the rod is travelling. Guess what is the weakest/softest link that is going to take that shock? The bearing.

It happens to a lot of motors that aren't dialed in right. Simple.

I don't bother with synthetic either, I run the VR1 but the cheap dino variety which can be had for $3-5 a qt. It is one of the oils recommended by FP for their large journal bearing turbos.

The cost between VR1 synthetic vs conventional is double. Roughly 60$ vs 30$ per 6 pack of quart bottles. It makes more sense, financially, to use non-synthetic.



I like the advantages of the synthetic plus my engine (knock on wood) does not leak after rebuild. But i am open to an idea to use conventional in 4G63 if there is an advantage.

I genuinely enjoy it when we get into oil discussions lol

Your wallet will be feeling the advantages.

I don't feel the nearly 30 year old design of the 4G63, with much wider tolerances than today's modern engines will reap any benefits of a synthetic oil vs a quality conventional.

Above all, regular changes are the most important part.

Either will work but I'm saying you won't see any disadvantages to the conventional.

Clear as day, thanks Jason

As for Reza saying it's a waste of money, I think he was refering to the VR1 you picked up vs mobile 1 you were running.

Can you not get brad penn there? both good price and well reviewed

I defiantly can, but BP is not recommended if you still running catalytic converter.

None of the high zinc are, VR1 included.

It's time to ditch the cat, my car smells like corn anyway haha

Clogs the cat? If so maybe I should add punching it to my list of things to do this winter.

On a somewhat related note, does the E85 in Cali have lead in it? I've noticed in Michigan that a number of the E85 pumps note that they have lead in the fuel as an 'anti-knock' agent. Didn't even think this was legal anymore?

I know leaded fuels definitely aren't good for O2 sensor life.

Zinc destroys the catalyst, makes it non functional.

True. Leaded fuels are not good for 02 sensors, but they do well at suppressing knock.

I find it hit and miss with each 02 sensor. Some die quicker and some last after seeing race fuel. My current 02 sensor has seen so much leaded race gas over the last 5 years and still runs fine.

Here is more info .

So essentially makes it just a restriction, Thanks Jason

Not much of an update but i finally got my remote entry working again with factory remote. My factory door actuators were seized and couldn't open any of my locks. For this project I used aftermarket door actuators which cost me under 10 dollars shipped from amazon. Usually I purchase OEM parts but Mitsu charges 135+$ per side that also includes entire door lock that i don't need.

Few notes regarding installation:
Small hole needs to be drilled on the door to mount aftermarket actuator.
Green wire on the actuator goes to blue/black factory wire and blue wire goes to red/blue factory wire. Factory alarm, door lock/unlock button, and remote entry is all working correctly with this mod. I followed write up on dsm tunners to get this done. There are total of 5 wires going to factory actuator, i left other 3 untouched.














I can now use remote to open doors. Still need time to get used to it instead of using the key