From the first day i witnessed Alex's beauty of a 2g ive been jealous.

Definately as clean as i hope to achieve with my 2g

That is why I enjoy taking them. Because of comments like yours. Thank you Jeremy!


It's a rented townhouse. Total parking space = 3. Two in garage and one outside. Enough space in garage but not enough for another parts car. But i am defiantly happy to move out from 1 bedroom apartment with only 2 parking spots.


Thanks Manny. Up close it's not perfect. Paint is mostly original from factory so it showing it's age. Deep Man did my front bumper so clear coat is absolutely perfect but rest of the car is falling behind.

Thanks to your comments everybody love them

Keep posting them Alex

+1 I love seeing picts of other peoples cars. Especially through out the winter!

Very happy to see the work bench method alive and kicking.

it's time to tear into that beast and remove it's heart

A little update. So i decided to replace my 2G steering wheel with a 3G unit.

I found this 3G eclipse at my local junk yard.


It had exactly what i need it. The wheel was a bit beat up but the best i could find so far.



My stock 2g wheel with wrapper on it.


Both wheels side by side.


Interchangeable air bags.



2G Cruise control switch needed some grinding on the 3g wheel.



Final product:





Some of the advantages:
- direct swap
- horn at center of the wheel
- smaller diameter. Overall it feels more tighter.
- better gauges visibility
- improved design
- still a Mitsu product

This upgrade was recommended by Terry S so i personally want to thank him for it. I used this write up.

Doesn't feel your driving a bus anymore eh?

One of my favourite mods was my evo 8 wheel.

Nice work Alex!

Nice work Alex, looks really good!

So the 3g wheel doesn't require changing the hub like the evo wheel?

The 3g wheel is smaller in diameter? In your side by side pic, is it just an illusion, as the wheel that's closer, looks much larger in diameter? (& I assume this to be the 3g wheel as its 3 vs 4 spokes)

Daren I beleive the 3g and Evo wheel are the same diameter, both much smaller than the 2g wheel.

That's correct Jason, I remember when Terry did it and that was one of the big reasons he went this way cause the spline is the same.

Thank Mike and Bryan.


Nope, the hub is exactly the same as 2g. The only mod needed is 2G cruise control switch. 3G cruise control is totally different unit.



The 3G wheel is smaller in diameter but not as small as evo 8. I would say 3G diameter is between 2G and Evo 8. You right that picture i took is not good. I will try to get exact measurements when I get back into garage.

Speaking about evo8. Yesterday i scored set of 4 evo 8 wheels

One step closer to front evo 8 Brembos upgrade.
These will clear brembos nicely and as far as i know does not require fender rolling as long as my tires are 235/40/R17

Damn son! That is what I want to do for my summer rims, really love those things.

Bryan, i can find those for you easily in US.

What a day today, thank you Jason Drew







My 99 revised 7 bolt block will appreciate those things

Thanks Alex, it probably won't be for a while as I want to get through the tires I have for summer right now but really appreciate that, will definitely let you know!

That is looking beautiful! What's the plan for the revised 7? rebuild or just going to swap it in? How man kms is on it

Keep me posted. Defiantly a full stock rebuild for revised 7 bolt. But first i need to figure out how to bring it back here from GTA

Cool thanks!!

Some red 2G love.
After so many years of owning it i finally decided to tint my windows. 15% rear and 25% on doors. Should match well with factory black/red Talon trim.







As of today, new manifold heat shield for OEM looks

Looks much better

Looks gorgeous!

Thanks Jason & Gui

Tinting is one thing I've been on the fence about for a while...

Think you may have pushed me over, Alex

Tint is a must.

Looks good.

Especially seeing as it hides the hideous driver of the car

Two questions;

What's the anl fuse for?

And is that a bungee cord holding down the lid of your fuse box?

Glad i did apperently it also helps keeping cabin cool during hot days

Thanks Mike


Fuse is for my 4 channel amp that powers all my speakers. Bungee cord keeps tention on injen intake so it does not bang over the frame. It was one of those temporary solutions that never went away. I need to find time and boxed it up like Jason D did. Also it will prevent hot manifold air from entering intake.

It looks like the fuse is connected in parallel from that angle. Should be in series from the amp. But that might be just the angle.

Far easier to make a bracket that clamps the maf sensor for another spot to secure the intake. When I had a maf, I got creative with just a 3mm thick 1"x8" piece of metal, a drill and bench vise, hammer, nuts and bolts. Was basically an "L" bracket that bolted to the maf and bolts to the frame rail. Just an easy, hidden spot. It Worked great too!

Just an idea if you have scrap metal kicking around.

Thats a good idea actually. Post some pics if have them kicking around

It's nothing I would have taken a pic of. Sorry man.

The K&N Fipk kit actually came with an L shaped bracket to attach it solidly.

Yep. The bracket I made was much longer and durable than that one.

IIRC, I used a bolt hole on the frame rail which was used for the factory BCS, an m8 10mm hex cap thread pitch of 1.25mm x 25mm. At the maf sensor, there are already predrilled holes that can snugly fit an m6 bolt. Shaped a bracket that actually was more like an L bracket but with a tab to accept the m6 bolt at the sensor. It's little work. And it hides the under the maf.

Don't forget the matching lock washers if you do it. The torque from the motor can wiggle it loose. Which is why I also used o-rings as make shift bushings.

While you guys getting your DSMs back on the road mine went back on jack stands. Head will be removed and short block surface inspected. It's time to find answers why she overheats and pushes coolant.



One of the runners is showing sings of oil leak. Others are bone dry. Is it okay for 260k original motor?

Okay it's finally out...
Without much words here is the progress so far:

Excellent work bud.

What impresses me is not just how clean everything is, but how clean it remains all throughout the job. I try to keep mine clean as a rule, but she gets messy as hell when she's under the knife, and then I clean it all up at the end.

You keep the bar high, sir.

I agree. Good job with it all

Thanks Lucian



Thanks Jeremy,
During lifting engine/trany with a crane i managed to leave two deep scratches behind in the engine bay . Overall it was a 5 day project (spread over few weeks) to get engine out & on the stand. I make slow progress and try to keep "gotta be done today" thoughts out of my head. I am divided on the idea of pulling engine/trany in one shot. Maybe i just need more practice but drooping trany down first and than pulling motor alone is much easier task to accomplish.

It's tough to avoid that completely, especially if you're doing things alone. This winter I managed to get mine out alone without scratching or rubbing anything, but my engine bay is fairly empty.

Going back in, I had an extra set of hands helping out. We still managed to leave a couple scratches on the one frame rail. Bit of touch up paint; nobody but my Dad and I will ever know it happened

Well...and now everybody on here.

Yeah if you're putting it in together one shot it's kinda almost impossible to not scuff something.

I've always liked doing it separate. I've never had a problem scratching anything when the engine goes straight down into its home, then the tranny gets installed from the bottom afterwards