Ok, we are working on the rally car and figuring out what else we need to order, what's is going back into the car and what is going into the bin.

In most things we are looking at simplification. If it is not really required can we get rid of it so it will not cause us grief down the line.

One of the questions we have is around an EGR and charcoal canister delete? Less vacuum hoses and components to worry about as a benefit. What are the issues with it?

We are planning on doing a full braided fuel system tank to fuel rail and back so we would have to plumb it in. We also need to pass a clean air.

Derek.

You don't have to worry about a drive clean test. They only test 2 speed idle these days. The only issue you may have is if they open hood and check for a valve they can reject you if it isnt present. Although most guy dont check too hard for them.

2 speed idle test is only for certain years. '98-99 will need an OBD2 test. What year is the car?

I was asuming it was his 1g that they are building for rally racing. But Jeff right if it is a 98-99 it will be an ODB test. And you need to figure out how to set the EGR monitor.

The car is a 91 so the idle test for sure

Also because you guys have the engine out of the car, block the egr off at the head not at the intake.

One trick people use is to install the EGR on top of the block off plate and loop the lines. That way a visual inspection will see it's still there, but it remains blocked and non-functional.

Do what I did.

You can do it with the engine in the car too. Just run a 1/8 NPT tap into the egr port then put in a few /8 NPT stainless plug with lots of lock tite.

Going to revive this thread, curious to see how many people have done what Anthony suggests as this what I was looking to do.

It would be quite easy to do. Or on the head mating flange of the manifold just weld it shut, done a few for people like that.

Yeah I was looking at that too but the heads already on the block and I don't feel like spending 100+ for new gasket.

Just wanted to see if anyone had done it, I will tap it soon and then see if I can get two plugs in there with some red lock tight.

Uhh...the way Jason stated doesn't require removing the head, he was referring to filling in the hole on the intake manifold head flange. You'd only be out whatever it costs for a new IM gasket, if you even needed to get a new one.

Wouldn't tapping with everything on the car introduce foreign material (metal shavings) to the system? Sounds like a bad idea to me, although I guess with a strong vacuum you could get most if not all of it cleaned up.

My bad, just re read what jason said, not much different between that and doing the block off plate, my understand is that the heat barrier gaskets can blow out if not blocked at the head, that is what I was concerned with.

^ Didn't happen to me yet.

Found it, if you use anti lag you can blow it out and who doesn't love anti lag!!

thread for reference:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/anti-lag-and-the-magnus-heat-barrier-gasket.332412/

dang....that's not good. I don't use anti lag but it does look like a soft spot to worry about.

One of the guys on the thread said he just screwed a 1/8npt plug into the whole with red locktite, without even tapping it first. I guess with a steel plug that would work fine.

Tapping would introduce shavings into the egr port but they wouldn't go far and should be easily sucked out with a vacuum, no need for oil when tapping a simple hole like this in aluminum so it won't be a sticky oily mess, just a few shavings. Worst case scenario they might get sucked into the turbine blades but they are much stronger than compressor blades and I wouldn't foresee much if any damage to the turbine from some tiny aluminum particles.

Happened to me, but yes was with anti-lag.

If you just thread a steel plug in without tapping first, you won't really be creating any metal shavings. However, if you want to tap it first with the head on the block and in the car, best way to do it is just to pull the exhaust manifold off. That port you're blocking at the intake side feeds off the #4 exhaust port, so if you pull the exhaust manifold you can stick a piece of shop towel or something in there while you work, then a bit of compressed air to blow out any shavings before you plug it.

This is what I figured was the case...I'd probably still avoid it but if I were to do it, it would definitely involve using a vacuum for a good cleaning. My biggest concern is/would really be if there somehow ends up being any large pieces/flakes/shavings of aluminum that end up finding their way into the path of the turbine rotating at speed. I know the turbine wheels are tough but it still doesn't take much to damage them when they're spinning quickly.



Good info...didn't know the exact path of the EGR port.

I shoved cotton in my hole.. Tapped it with a regular thread. The Npt threads didnt work for me. Then pulled the cotton out.. and made a stud from a bolt with a slotted end.

All manifold are off so that sounds like a good idea to me. thanks for all the tips guys I think I may just go for screwing in a steel plug, if it's not going as planned then I will pull it and stuff it and tap it first so i can clean it proper before the plug goes in.

Let us know which plug u going to use. Take a pic of it

Will do!!

I'm almost certain you will be using a 1/4" NPT hex plug. This is going from memory.

Actually 1/8, if you go 1/4 you have to drill it out before you put it in! Going to drop in at bolts plus to see if I can grab one there.

So that would be something like that :

Exactly!!

Here is a bit more info on the issue




source

JB weld sounds like a good idea, maybe I will go with that.

PS I think I have written off the after noon, this build is beautiful!

See I found the 1/8th was to small. and the 1/4 was too big. thats why I went with a sandard bolt size.

Also I didnt put any sealer or thead lock... cause I figured its seeing very hot temps from the exaust. What ever size stud I used... fit tight anyway.

I was worried about that so i tested with a 1/8 barb fitting and it wouldn't just slide in so I know the threads definitely will have something to bite into.

I also found the 1/8 NPT was not big enough; there is some metal for the threads to grab, but not much. I ran a 1/8 NPT for a year and it was obvious the exhaust was still getting through.

I drilled it out and tapped it for 1/4 NPT. It was a bit on the big side, I didn't want to drill in too far, and NPT plugs tend to snug up with some of the plug still sticking out. So after it was snugged, I just took a larger drill bit and drilled down the bit of plug that was sticking out until it was flush with the mating surface.

Wish I had taken a picture or two.. I hope that makes sense. Also this is all on a 1G head.. from what I've seen, the 2G head seems to be okay with 1/8 NPT but I've never looked at it too closely in person.

NPT is a tapered thread, so it should get tighter as it goes in. If the plug is still sticking out even though it is tight, it should just be tapped a little deeper. Both the plug itself and the tap are tapered.

I understand that, but you can't put the tap in further as the port curves off to the side.

But most pipe plugs are designed so that they tighten while still sticking out a bit. Just look at all the other pipe plugs around engine bay

Illtake a pic of mine this week. right now The intake is on for mocking things up.

I dont think a regular bolt vs a pipe plug is a good idea. Pipe plugs taper so the threads can stretch and hold tension...without the head on a bolt there is no way to apply tension to the threads.

Definitely lock-tite would help. But I would suggest a pipe plug.

The bolt/stud only goes in as far as I tapped.

Yes it would. You should put some locktite on it. There really is anything that will stop it from vibrating out. You can probably loosen it easily with a screw driver wouldn't hurt to add some security of thread locker.

I was going to do jb weld as I figured that might be better than some thread locked but will grab some red thread locker if that the way I should go.

Thread locker usually releases with heat. Might be better to "peen" it in place. Deform the threads just above the plug so it can't back out just from vibration, would take force to get it out.

This is a good idea, but one would need a reasonably short plug then, so that some thread(s) would be exposed.

Again, pipe taps are tapered. Just tap a little deeper

my plug is pretty short, can take a picture when I get home. I assume I use a finish nail punch to peen the thread?

Any punch that can get in there should work, a finish nail punch should be perfect.

I was more concerned about the depth available to tap into, as others mentioned the port quickly curves.

I was following what you were saying Sal, I will let you know if that becomes an issue.

If the pipe plug sticks out just remove it and grind the head down. The square drive is pretty deep so it shouldnt be an issue.

Well it's done? It's hard to see what you are doing at the back of the engine so it seems it went in a little crooked, if it went in strait I think peening would have been fine.
Mine also pushed out a little of the aluminum so I hammered it back in which made it flush and worked the same as peening would so happy with the result.