I can't go another whole summer maxing out my 20g at 45-47lbs!

Anyone interested in a nice 20g setup with Holset 17psi wastegate? It's all powder coated nice and pretty too

Lol!

Made my coil pack relocation bracket today, pretty happy with the results.

I too am happy with your results! lol

Genius, I definitely like that!!

Looks good Jason. Do you have to extend ECU wiring for this to work? Could this new location cause more water/moisture deposits? Possibly corroding that connector

My wiring harness is currently all taken apart for a wire tuck and the wiring for the coil is definitely long enough. All of the oem connectors are sealed as far as I'm aware. It's a summer car anyway, I can't foresee any issues.

I had issue with this type of connector for HID leveling sensor in RX8. Overtime water found its way in through the holes were wires fed through and corroded connector on the inside. Adding some type of sealant there is probably a good idea. Just my 0.02 cents.

BTW, do you have access to your own powder paint equipment?

I ran the harness under the manifold to the stock location of the coils and had lots of extra.

Being behind the motor, fairly high up, I don't foresee a problem, some dielectric grease would probably make it 100% worry free.

And yes, I do powder coating.

Yah that would do it.



nice!

What kind of kit do you use? I've been looking at a few on Ebay

This ought to look good

This is how the car is sitting as of last night. I mailed off the 20g this morning. Should have something new to put in that empty spot tonight.

Here's the new toy.

Starting to get a few things going here.

Took a spare 2g intake manifold, bored it out for a 1g throttle body, and while I was at it decided to shave it.



After a little welding:



Fuse box is in it's new location, still more trimming to do.



And lastly the turbo got some powder, next week the rest will get ceramic

So how does the wire tuck work? Are you splicing in new lengths of wire where you need length or does everything reach OK? Or are you re-wiring all the way to the ECU? It looks hot, I just hate touching wiring if I don't have to for fear of a difficult to diagnose bad connection.

whats the turbo?

Don't waist your time with dielectric grease unless it for the back of the connector. Dielectric grease is an insulator not a conducter. It is used on connections that are not already weather packed ( the little rubber socks and orings in the connector) you will have no problems unless you have tampered with the actual terminal and connector.

So far everything has been ok with the stock length, even with the fuse box dropped down in the fender. I'm only going back to the firewall, I've removed wiring that I will never use again, but there is a small stub remaining which is labelled in case I ever need it.



It's a GT3071

I like what you did with the intake. Are you going to run a vac block then?

Looks good Jason.



If he had moved the fuse box to the cabin like I did then he would of had to extend more wires. As long so you do a good soldering job and use adhesive lined heat shrink you will be ok.

Thanks, and yes, that is the plan, everything will be out of sight.

I just completed moving my fuse box to the trunk, I had to extend the Headlight,horn,rad fan,turn signals and the oil sensors but all the other wires (20 or so of them) did not have to be extended as they had enough length.

Jason..Instead of running a vacuum block (which can be inconsistent to feed everything) you could try putting multiple npt barb fittings on the back of the manifold, thats the route I plan on taking.

The other idea I had in my head was to tap the ends of the rail that the PCV valve connects into on the manifold, one end to feed the BOV and the other end for the AFPR and map sensor.

If that MAP sensor is for SD, I would give it a dedicated line (as short as possible) instead of having it share with the AFPR.

+1, dedicated lines for the important hardware is important if you want accuracy and less vacuum related issues. BOV...FPR...Brake Booster...and MAP sensor should never share vacuum sources.

Or put the MAP right in the manifold. My MAP sensors are threaded directly into my SMIM.

Ok, I've popped the little freeze plugs out of the ends -> very, very easy to do. It's sized perfectly inside to be tapped NPT.

So I will come off the right side with a 1/4 npt line and break will T into two 1/8" barbed fittings, the other end will be a barbed fitting directly in the end. This rail is large inside and connected to all 4 runners, I can't foresee any issues sharing it this way. Last year my AFPR/MAP/boost gauge all shared one vacuum hose with no ill effects that I could see, it has to be an improvement over this.

I'm not going to throw tons of effort into this. When my 6 bolt block is completed, I have a fresh rebuilt 1g head to go along with it and will most likely run either a Magnus cast intake or some other SMIM.

More parts have arrived, and more should be in tomorrow as well.



Also got a new front bumper.

Catch can is now finished.

Started off like this:



And completed:



Baffled inside as well.

I like it! You just tack the baffle in there?

It's screwed in, you can see the holes on the top.

BB?

Yes.

Wire harness is 90% done, just a couple little things to take care of but I need to get my intake manifold bolted up first to verify cable lengths.

I just picked up a catch can of that style. Nice use of the baffle. I may have to steal that idea.

My wire tuck is nearly finished, all electrical on the motor is now connected. The shaved intake manifold and 1g TB are installed as well.



Even the injectors.

Looking VERY clean under that hood!

Could you post a picture of how you tucked the injector wires? it would help me out if you could.

This is probably the best view I can get, they are pointed downwards and run between runners. I don't think this works with the coil pack and igniter in the stock locations.

thanks! The route you have taken with your shave/tuck is eerily similar to what my path is. Wire routing will not be a problem I just wanted to see how you redirected the wires.

Great work bty