Haven a few silly pops Ghislain.

Had 3

Nice

Any updates on this car? Ever make it to the track?

Oh yes, it made it.

My torque converter won't spool this turbo at the line, I have to get my spare restalled.

From a standstill it went 111MPH at 25psi with 8 degrees timing, no meth, conservative tune.

The car went to the body shop, got all fixed. I'm puking oil right now out from beneath my timing cover, going to get it fixed at Ghislain's tomorrow night.

I've also passed legit, my etest.

Interesting you can pass an Etest with oil pouring out of the side of your engine onto the ground.

i guess they don't measure the oil emissions...lol

In england You get pulled over and your car gets reported for having an oil leak. then I thinnk you get fined.

Plus they dont believe in oil lube shops. Changeing oil to them is like doing laundry. they would never pay someone to do it.

I know what that feels like.

It's going off to Converter Man next week!

And it doesn't pour oil, it drips a little bit. Found the leak last night, going to fix it this weekend.

Ryan, if I may ask. Who is the converter man?

His name is look it up on the internet. LOL

The company is called "Converter Man" in Toronto/Missy area.

Well, here's this year's build, if you can call it that.

Summer 2012 netted a time of 11.42 with a top MPH of 123mph. I think the car will benefit from a bit of a diet, so I've put her on one. I'd like to see a mid-high ten with this setup and still maintain decent street manners.

I'm going to replace my exhaust with an aluminum cat-back with a true full 3" SS downpipe. The car will still pass an E-test with a functioning cat and be street legal with 2 mufflers installed. On race day, the cat will be replaced with a test-pipe as well as the 2nd muffler be replaced with a straight pipe out the back. All this will be V-Band connectors.

The spare tire well is being removed, and replaced with a chunk of steel riveted to the body and silicone to seal it. No welding here, it's too thin. On that will sit a factory-appearing chunk of carpet with a nitrous bottle. The bottle will be used to help me get up on the converter faster. I like the street manners of this converter, it's tight enough to keep the fluid cool, but too tight to come up on it in under 15 seconds. The nitrous will help with that. It will shut off when 40mph/6000rpms is reached, whichever is sooner.

As for the rear subframe, it's going to get a bit of a makeover, but I'm keeping that to myself for now.

A few pictures of the progress:

You gonna get one of those new Magnus rear subframes ?!

Very interesting Mr. Laliberte

No, not getting a new Magnus subframe, re-using my own. Just changing a few components throughout.

If you DO want a Magnus subframe let me know. Can get a deal no problemo

It's getting powdercoated purple

Aggressive grape.

No purple at the rear.

HEE HAW!!!

mine says bfh, wonder if it's because it's a manual

nice work Ryan!

hope you make your 10's next summer

Evo diff???

Auto LSD. They didn't make them in Canada. Finding the package at the price I did is UNHEARD of!

Just to add some info: The EVOVIII LSD fits inside the 1G or 2G NON LSD Pumpkin and used (that I know of) Non LSD Axles.

I'm sure that someone here could confirm that last part of my statement.

The EVOVIII LSD has is "Mechanical" LSD as opposed to Excellent aftermarket upgrade is also available.

Ghislain

I thought it was only the 2G that it worked with...but if it works with the 1G then maybe I should start keeping my eyes open for two really hard to really hard to find parts -a 1G non-LSD manual pumpkin and an Evo8 rear diff.

I'm pretty sure it fits inside a 1G Pumpkin.

It was a guy on here from Newfoundland that put the Evo diff in a 2G non-lsd pumpkin.

http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=350886

Well a little bit of progress on the rust repair. My rockers are perfect, but I do have a small patch in the rear I have to do. I've got off about 80% of the seam sealer and crap on the LR wheel well.

It's coming along...

Wow Ryan looks good. What's the process you are going to take, I have some rust repair I need to do. My plan was to cut out rust, weld in 22ga sheet metal, then seem seal it, then bed liner it.

Your on the right track. Im guessing the bedliner stuff is same as rubberized undercoating.

I'm going to weld in new metal, but I'll be going 16ga, it's a little thicker but not by much. I'll be stitching my seams then sealing them, then do a POR15 treatment to the whole underbody of the car.

I have two boxes of bedliner sitting in the shop. Its over 100 worth of the stuff. I'll let it go for cheap to see it gone if someone wants it? $30?

Cool thanks Deep, yeah kind of, I have taken a wire wheel to it and it has been unfazed, it also keeps out moisture so it's good stuff. Plus for prep I just need to strip the metal and good to go.

Stitch? I am new to the welding stuff, and can't seem to find pictures of different weld types, just found that stitch sealing is more rigid.

The end result will look like this:

Just looks like a bunch of tack welds, I assumed stitching would be a full bead along the seem. Looks good though, can't wait to see your progress.

Google Stitch Welding.

Ok finally found some info, so if I was going to stitchweld the exterior of the car I would use the seam sealer to seal the parts that are not welded, correct? Also just read that stitch welding is not full penetration, is this true? I keep finding contradicting information, very confusing!

Also the material do not overlap in stitch welding?

found a welding channel on youtube and have been watching a few videos over the past half hour, definitely some good info!

Few updates.








Ran out of wire, so I will be adding more steel to the rocker area tomorrow.