Spider gears are all good everything spins very nice.. Ian stopped in as well and had a look, he as well thought it seemed very smooth.

Transfer case I havent taken off in a bit but last time i did it was smooth, and when i had all four tires up in the air, all for tires spun free with tcase... disconnected my driveshaft and spun my rear diff by itself and it was free spinning.

Front drive axles are new and are good, rears have no play.

I changed the stock line with 8mm hose and check valve from Ziggy. Check valve is in the correct way as well... The stock line was still working fine, but i changed it anyways.

When I get it back together Im going to block off the booster from the IM.. and run without power brakes. if its still weird ill take off the pads and go for a ride down the back roads .. if theres still hesitation, i can scratch brakes off the list...


Ian and I checked my plug wires, and the resistance was very low compared to other wires i had kickin around.. they are accel 8mm

About to start putting the tranny back together, has anyone ever reused the pin on the fork? Mine is still in good shape. Safe to use again?

Back together.
Blocked off the booster from the IM, and still the same problems, and same brakes were getting warm, so I returned the booster.

While i was there i had them look through the different master cylinder to see if maybe they gave me the wrong one? im sure that would give me issues....

put some other plug wires on from another car..

Also, 1st and second are now harder to get into while downshifting... great..
Sounds to me like the syncs slips out? i dunno.. shifts.. buts its stiff.. only 1 and 2.

Anywho, nightmare continues

I have reused the pins on the shift forks with no problems (though not recommended), but for $1 each they are not that expensive to replace if you have the time to order them.

I don't know man, the problem still sounds like it is drivetrain related.

Anyone have a match? .. that'll fix er... or at least teach her a lesson..

Ill post what I do next.. and what happens lol.. thanks everyone for the help

Almost feels like Im not getting full ignition until full boost.. almost feels like a studder.. How can you tell when a transistor goes bad? or a CAS goes bad? or even my MAF?? or fuel pump?? but i figured when fuel pumps and mafs go, they just go and dont work at all...

check engine light came on 3 times out of no where, and had the same reaction to the car as fuel cut does, although i was just at cruising speeds twice, and idling another.. The light went away before i was able to pull up link and check out what it was. Happened 3 times in the past month. When my first MAF went bad, it did a similar reaction, but it didnt keep working after, i had to change it. Its a 3" gm maf with MAFT zeroed out and dsmlink for tuning.

Plugs are 7s and are gapped to 30..

Compression on a warm engine, not full operating temp, was 138 across.
I read that service limit was 122. I know 138 is not where i want it, as 150, 160 is, but cant see it being my problem..

Noticed in my logs, at steady throttle, my A/F's randomly spikes lean for no reason.. And can feel it hesitate at the point as well.

Changed

-injector clips/caps
-Aeromotive AFPR
-02 sensor
-swapped ECUs (both are from ECM tuning)
-new fuel pump (wally 255 HP)
-plugs/wires
-CAS
-coil pack
-transistor
-throttle shaft seals
-eliminated MAF, now speed density


Checked voltage at the pump, 13.8 with car running, of course i only checked at idle.

Checked the tcase and stuff as i thought it was drivetrain .. nodda

SAME PROBLEM

AND new fuel filter and Ziggy's stainless line set up from filter to rail


Also logged "fuel flow", it dropped the same time it spiked lean, and not jsut one spike, like my log looks like a jagged cave lol... then normal after the spikes....

How can i post a log?

Could there be rust in my fuel line or something?

Maybe some stainless braided line and an inline pump

When you had the booster disconnected from the IM, did you have the same issues in idle, from the first post?

Do you notice any problems in idle when playing around with throttle position?

Got a fuel pressure gauge under the hood?

Yea its on the AFPR, set to 37 psi

I never really tried pumping the brakes with it disconnected, because the pedal is solid and cant really do that.. i just drove it for a couple kms and was getting the same problem.

When I hold the throttle at say 25%, and let the RPMS and boost build slowly, it starts studdering and spiking lean.

If i knew how, id throw up the log

What I'm attempting to do is try to rule out air getting sucked into the system somewhere in the fuel delivery, something that might only be present when the pump is actually trying (not idling). I know you replaced the pump, and I'm going to assume that out of the two pumps you had, you have had to seat it at least correctly once, so I'm not sure what else could be a source of air into the system.

If you are in idle and increase the throttle directly on the throttle body, does the gauge stay steady motion, or does it flicker? Would you be able to make a correlation between your stumbles and the fuel pressure/delivery?

Best way to post logs on this forum is get a gmail account and upload your log as a google doc, then grab the link for that doc and post it up here.

It just seems like two things are going on here, something responsible for the brakes heat etc... and something else for the stumbling/hesitation. Especially considering you severed the only link between the two and both problems persisted.

What gets me the most is pressing on the brakes at idle essentially stalls your car. This would be a throwback at there might be something up in the brake booster that is only apparent while braking, but also isn't working correctly just by itself - hot brakes.

When I get the chance, I'll see what I can drudge up for the braking system and see if anything in the system could explain the diagonal pairing of symptoms.

Fuel pressure goes up, then when i let off itll drop, then idling it returns to normal

Does it hesitate at all in idle while changing throttle position? Slow and steady, or fast and sudden? Both? Or does it only hesitate while loaded?

Only while loaded, TPS volts were logged and they fluctuate pretty good with the pedal movement.

Seems to be more in the +3500 and on load, when i hit the gas hard, it definately doesnt get up and go...

Its like my deadtime is way to high and the injectors cant keep up...

Wasnt like this when i first put them in tho, car ran amazing...

But if i hold a constant pedal around 4000, it spikes and misses and is like the injectors arent squirting correctly or something.

headache, after headache, after headache.

With link, can you see what each injector is doing independently?

im not sure, i know you can test each one, but the problem is only higher rpms and under load, so they all seem equal and fine.

If anyone else know if i can log each individual injector that would be awesome..

I might be thinking of something else and I don't have my evoscan lappy with me right now to check.

I know it is a pain in the ass, but I don't think it is something you have tried, but have you tried swapping out your injectors?

No i dont have any spares other then 450s.. running RTM 95lbers right now

Maybe some of the vets can chime in whether or not this could actually be related to the injectors.

I mean, you have gone through pretty much everything in the drivetrain, and I just can't see the drivetrain causing the hesitation you are talking about.

If your pressure is good, I would say all your connections are up to snuff as well as the passages...the only thing left is maybe some gunk in the injectors that is only apparent when they try to sustain.

Considering everything else you have went about and try, it might be worth the 15mins to swap the 450s back in and see what happens. I would assume you have an old link tune that you could load up to match the injectors?

edit: if it does turn out to be the injectors, at least you have Ziggy to stand behind his products...depending on how old they are of course (can only be considered responsible after a certain point)

I have maybe 8000 kms on them.

Im pulling the turbo off just to check it out. Gotta clean up the engine bay anyways.

And I ordered some fuel line.

Next will be injectors.

IMO, throwing money at the situation won't help it.

Do you have the check valve one way line installed correctly for the brake booster?

Have you ensured your E-Brake cables aren't seizing?

Are your plugs gapped correctly?

Is your exhaust plugged? Have you replaced your cat?

Are your gears piling up on themselves?

Not throwing money at it, everything I have Ill be using in my other car, other then the fuel line, Ill be buying more. Its all troubleshooting. My valve cover was leaking a bit and I want to clean everything up now that i have new gaskets. So pulling the turbo to check it out while im cleaning up, its been on there for a while.

e brakes are disconnected, Im done looking at the brakes and drivetrain. These leans spikes at over 3500 rpms i think is from my injectors, or even one of them.

Plugs were 28, but I could bring them to 25... It does this even without boost, so i cant see it blowing spark or anything of that nature.

Not sure what you mean about piling up.

I swapped exhausts already, thinking it was the cat. Too many symptoms add up to this type of problem.

Check way valve is new and good.

Gotta get these injectors checked out.s.

Just changed my oil and there was definatly gas in it. Was thin, smelly, and could see it on top of the oil. Really starting to think I have an injector that has gone and the other 3 cylinders are overloading with gas to compensate the lack of fuel in the 1 cylinder.

Compression with the engine warm, not full operating temp, was 138 across.
I read that service limit was 122. I know 138 is low and not where I want it, as 150, 160 is. Would that be low enough for major blowby?

I found this today, number 3 injector wire is getting so hot it first, melted the stock black thick protector, I thought it was due to lose connectors, so i replaced them all. Now even with the new connectors, this has gotten so hot again that it melted again. Checked the resistor, 6.5 on all connections.



Its not from excessive engine heat, all the other wires are closer and aren't melted.

Have you tried swapping the injector resistor pack?

Nope, but I just checked the resistance and each one was 6.5

Used this method.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/367248-bad-injector-resistor-box-how-test.html

I guess it's time to swap the injectors! Or you could just move the one and see if the problem follows it.

I was thinking of doing that, cuz i dont really wanna put my new FIC's in and have it short one of them out.. Do you think a bad injector would cause a short and heat up the wire?

The engine runs, idles and everything pretty normal.

Question, with link you can check the individual on idle, all were fine... With ignition on, car not running, can I test check for proper power? Unplug and throw a volt meter on it?