Not true, A lot of emission Related component can effect nox,but the main 3 are a Cat, 02 Sensor and EGR You cannot say EGR is the main cause of a high NOX reading. Im a Emission Test Inspector and Work at a Accredited Repair Facility, We fix at least 3 cars a week, that fail emission, From personal experience a Failing cat is the most commonly problem with NOX. Last week we had a 2005 Toyota corolla that failed with only 120k on it, The cat and EGR system were good, it was a failing O2 Sensor...Just shows you EVERY CAR is very different and you cant base your results on the mr2....

If it means anything... my car passed without an EGR

yeah that shows you every car is different

my car with no cat had a nox of 2800, with a cat 2200. egr is the main source of high nox, every mechanic i know says so.

Again you are comparing your old mr2 bro, Mikes car passed without a EGR, every car is VERY diffrent, Yes EGR is made to control NOX, but what I was saying you cant say its the main problem with a emission test , I dont want people reading your comment and directly going to spend money fixing there EGR and then there car fails...and with Micheals car I was saying when a CAR FAILS EVERY reading many times for me it is the CAT.. but not the case with his car becuase he already changed it...

and Brandon only a difference of 600 eh, A lot of cars that need a Cat fail at the same reading, and once that cat is on it is usually under 400 NOX, but that was not the case with your mr2, If I recall did it come with a EGR ? I dont think so but im not sure, If you had put the EGR first and tested it with no cat, I Garuntee you would've got the same Readings

I would say the first thing to check is the EGR system (assuming the car is supposed to be equipped with one). This is because usually it is easy to test.
With the engine at idle, manually actuate or apply vacuum as needed to get the valve to open. If the engine stalls aor at least runs rough, it's likely the EGR system is not plugged. Also confirm the valve diaphragm is working properly.

I would say that it is a common failure point (especially on older cars) due to the environment it has to work in. I have seen the EGR passages completely clogged on my old Camaro, the valve still worked but nothing could flow.

Now some cars I know either weren't designed to need an EGR valve or don't need it much, fine.

However, it's easy to check and a nasty environment so I would still check it first if I had NOx issues. Swapping out a cat or O2 is way more difficult and costly.

For the cars that have electronic EGR, well then I guess it's tougher to manually operate the valve. Sucks to be you. Maybe there is a jumper you can use.

Rob, Thats the thing, I can check 02 sensor with a Computer, And The cat with the Actual Emission machine, For me it is the same thing, I was Replying to Brandons Statement when he says, A cat doesnt affect The limits like that which is for sure not true, And A EGR is the main cause of a High Nox Which I am saying is not true for every car, and Yes EGR should be checked first because it is the easiest

How would I get the same ratings if I installed a system that is put in place to reduce NOx limits. The USDM MR2 with an EGR valve passes those limits no problem. Only difference, engine wise, between jdm and usdm, is the EGR valve.

And yes only 600, because a 3 way cat is not something that can drop the NOx limits like an EGR system does, that is what it's there for.

I went over this with Durham Auto Works, Can-Saf, Tomlin, Yoshio, and my family mechanic.

And the cars might be different, but all EGR systems work the same.

But isn't the EGR supposed to be closed at idle?
So a properly functioning EGR shouldn't do anything to lower the NOx at idle. Something else is going on!

//edit
I see it did pass the idle test, however. So do carry on and keep the above as trivia

Brandon I meant, if you had put a EGR with no CAT you would get near the same limits as Putting a Cat with no EGR

Cars with functioning EGRS and Failing cats read over 2000 in nox, and once that cat is put on it reads under 400

Same thing with a EGR, if the EGR is failing and has a functioning cat and reads over 2000 once again the nox would come down when cleaning or replacing the EGR

Do you understand what I am trying to say ?

Hi guys
I just failed etest.

I read from the emission control faq's that the high CO% could be attributed with running rich.
I have a SAFC installed but all the setting were set to 0's accross. Do you think leaning out the safc a little on the low throttle can help me pass the etest?

Also, I realized after doing the etest that my base timing was set to 2 or 3 degree, i am not sure if that has contributed to the failure.

Sorry for the blurry picture.

Run 87 octane gas. That's what I used and passed.

Good luck.

Base timing - not enough advance will make it rich, since you don't get a complete burn.
Put some 87 octane in too, it burns quicker.
Go for a highway cruise just before the test.

If that doesn't sort it out, maybe leaning it out a bit will.

Well the moral of my story is DO Not buy a cat from Canadian Tire,it turns out after putting all the stuff in the car and having it fail again i got them to do the diagnostic on it, and sure enough the cat i bought from crappy tire was a dud had like 10% effiency 140 bucks later and some begging i got him to make the test pass wink wink so now my nox reads zero lol.. Thanks for all your input guys wealth of knowledge on here thats for damn sure..

Which cat was it, Magnaflow ?

And Francis did you check how your o2 Sensor was working, looks like it could have been a faulty o2 sensor

I actually got my issue resolved.
I minus the idle -5 and -10 from 2000 to 3000 rpm on my safc.

No idea if the o2 was bad or not, I am getting any codes and the logger shows that it's responding.

I got this

91' tsi fwd

Just recently went for an e-test at crappy. They said there was too much blue smoke when they went to do the rolling test.
If the car sits and idles for awhile and then you go to take off that's the only time it smokes.

How much harm does adding those really honey-thick additives to your oil do? You know the 'stop oil burning/leaking' ones.

It's my beater and I'm not concerned about performance anymore, I just don't want to blow it up and pass the e-test so I can get one last year out of it.

Any suggestions?
Thanks

My old 1.8L DSM had leaky valve seals and smoked just like you described. I switched from regular dino 10w30 to Valvoline MaxLife (high mileage oil) and it greatly reduced the smoke.

I'd be cautious with additives in a turbo motor too

Hmm, I wish I could get as far as the guys did in the thread that my topic was moved to but they wouldn't even test it. Sorry, I thought it was a different issue than these fellows were having as mine has nothing to do with fuel or tuning as I have no way of changing any of those thing on this car.

Thanks for the info Rob, I'll definitely try that.

Hey Kevin, Go to crappy tire and pick up, Stop Smoke/Stop Leak, I think its called, Put it into your oil and drive around, That's what we recommend to cars that I cannot E-test, And If you E-test them, The machine gets Facked Over

some info for you guys.

Oil changers is an awesome place for an etest. You drive right up and wait maybe 30 mins max(if its busy) and you are out of there fast.

none of this crappy tire 3-4 hour wait or having to make an appt and end up waiting an hour anyways.

ive been as quick as rolling up. paying/doing test and gone all within 10 mins.

I havent gone to crappy tire for an etest in ages since i discovered this little gem of a place.

no i dont work for them. just trying to help members save some time. i know i was tired of the shitty crappy tire service.

Hey Guys,
Im a new DSM owner who took ownership of a neglected Eclipse from my roommates ex wife. Its a 97 Eclipse Spyder GS-T and it has some issues, but Id like to get some feedback on what I should do next for repairs. I took the car to get it e-tested expecting it to fail (wanted to see how badly) and it did. The car was throwing the code P0340, so I reset it before the test.

Since failing the test, I replaced the cam sensor, and will have to replace the BOV, because it is broken where the vacuum line goes into it. It was jb welded by someone, but im going to replace it just the same.

How are the boost leak tests done on dsm cars? On my SRT-4, I would attach a fitting on my Turbo and use my compressor to reach 20 pounds of pressure. Is that the same method for dsm cars?

The plugs, wires, coil pack, and oil were changed prior to the e-test. The car is no longer throwing codes since replacing the cam sensor.



Thanks for your help
Ed

Welcome, Ed,

Check out this post (and the Fuel Systems forum) for some emissions ideas..
http://www.ca.dsm.org/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=174162#Post174162

You can find boost leak test info and other great resources at http://www.vfaq.com

You should do another test after fixing any boost leaks. The bad CAS could have been causing a misfire and boost leaks definitely don't help.

Make sure you reset the ECU after fixing things and drive around for a good while (including a highway pull before the test, to get your cat hot).

Good luck!

and some meth in the tank will help with the etest also....
Our old jeep with 580k on the clock just passed

Ed, I would assume your converter is bad by now with CO% like that

Thanks for the replys guys, I have been picking at the car a bit, and yesterday I decided to run a can of seafoam through it. When the car was sucking the can of seafoam, I noticed seafoam leaking out between the turbo and manifold so I decided to take the turbo heatshield off to check for loose bolts, heres what I found LOL:


3 of the 4 bolts were loose, one of them were completely undone. I tightened the bolts and stopped the leak. Im wondering if that would contribute to the fail. I also purchased a 1g stock Bov, I just have to find a way to rig it up to work, then I will attempt to e-test it again.

Ed

Yep, exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor can throw it off and your ECU may dump extra fuel.

Could yes.....But could be worse !!!!!!!!

You need a new catalytic converter for sure, those numbers are very high.

Well I passed the e-test today
Im pretty happy with that, All it took was a new cam sensor, tighten the bolts for the turbo, and a can of seafoam. Thanks for all your help guys!

Ed

Hey guys,

I'm currently trying to get my Talon dd status. I just got it saftied and all thats left is passing my emissions test. I went in Feb 10/11 and did all the above: 91 octane, meth, raise idle rpm to 1150, no boost leaks, no exhaust leaks. I almost passed but failed Idle CO by 3 points..

Heres my mod list:
Stock 7 bolt (175psi on all 4 cyl)
PTE 1000cc injectors
BPR6ES plugs gapped to .28
New tayler 8mm wires
AFPR set to 43.5psi
Blocked off EGR
3" turbo back with hollowed out cat
Dsmlink v3 lite w/ evo 8 fuel and timing maps
AEM UEGO

Just before I went in to the test I bumped up the idle rpm, raised the timing +5 deg from 0-3000rpm, Added 2 bottles of meth, and set my global to -58.6 and deadtime to 345. My COMBFT was at like +23..





I forgot to zero out my MAF COMP table as it was adjusted for the 1000cc injectors with global being -53.1 deadtime 345.





If I zero out the MAF Comp table will I lean it out and make be pass or should I increase it? Im confused here and I believe this is the final step to making it pass without a cat.

Idle shows a richer mixture, and your MAFComp is actually telling the ECU to increase fueling.

Send me a log of idle. milcan21@hotmail.com

hey guys, im having some trouble myself passing my etest. I've had two test done so far, the first one i had my idle set around 1100 rpm i believe(i have a data logger)and these are my results

HC-58-59 200-186
CO-.32-.57 1.00-.07
NO-435-1375 n/a-n/a

so i only passed the curb idle section

I had a new cat put on and from what the logger was reading i believe that my o2 sensor is ok.

I went back for my second test today, i believe the timing on the logger was reading 7* and my idle was about 750 and these are the results i came with

HC-58-13 200-16
CO-.32-.00 1.00-.00
NO-435-714 n/a-na

so I passed everything except the NO just from changing the cat and setting my idle back, I go back tomorrow for a retest and im wondering what I should try to get it to pass? Set the idle higher again? I've read threw 2 different threads on here and im still a little confused and only had my talon for about 8 months so any help would be greatly appreciated. My car is fairly stock still

Try changing your plugs, oil and air filter. Only run NGK BR6ES plugs

BPR6ES

BPR6ES are projected plugs, to keep knock down you can run BR6ES Non-Projected plugs.

So I've picked up new plugs and installed them and now I have a couple days till I go for a retest.

This might not be right section for the second question I have but both have to do with my test.

I have a maft setup that I've been waiting to install, if I installed this and had a set for my cars settings would it affect the etest in terms of helping it?
My second question is about the throttle body, I have a n/t one that came with me maft setup; the gm maf attached to piping which is then attached to the throttle body. Using this setup would be much easier then having to cut my current uicp. The n/t throttle body only has 3 vacuum lines on the top as compared to the turbo one with the 4th coming on a angle? If I was to put the n/t on what should be done with that 4th line?

I always found it less stressful just to grease the wheels so to speak or just pay for a slip if you know what I mean

Easier said then done around here, I used to know a guy but he's changed shops

I just failed miserably.
2500 RPM:
HC ppm Limit: 150 Reaading 287 (FAIL)
CO% Limit: .70 Reading.83 (FAIL)

RPM 2633
Dilution 15.3

IDLE RPM:
HC ppm Limit: 150 Reading 589 (VERRYY FAILED)
CO% Limit: .70 Reading .11 (Pass)

RPM 1114
Dilution 15.1