Out of curiosity, since I'm guessing that the Magnus Manifold is based on gains with a turbo DSM, would the gains still be high with an N/T? I'm actually thinking about getting one if the gains are still there, anyone know if it matters if it's a turbo or N/T DSM?

No useless for an NT, most don't get this manifold until they are making high HP, ie drag car in excess of 500 hp.

Oh, so much for that then lol

Hey Kobie,
Have you considered a 14b on low boost?

...Or better yet, how 'bout a turbo DSM

Ya I have, but don't want to make my car less reliable lol

Can't afford one believe me, I would love a tsi

Personally I don't get the whole DSM's aren't reliable. I've owned mine for about 6 years & I have only had one issue that I can think of, which was a worn out bushing in the rear suspension.

Guys buy these cars, make 2-3 times of what their power was stock, don't do any maintenance & cry about them not being reliable. Also have to consider these are 15 year old cars even for the newest 1gs.

Personally I think DSM's are very reliable cars, hell my brand new bought winter beater has more issue & its not a year old!

I mean the added issues of boost leaks, more parts that can fail (turbo shaft play) etc.

By the time u mod that car to make it quicker you could have sold it and saved up some money to buy a tsi.

lol, ya probably, but not in the same condition. You do have a point though.

Indeed your car looks very clean.

Bah Kobie, don't let them get to you. Eric gets the same nonsense for his N/T 2G, yet has put enough money into it to make a TSi go 11's reliably.

I do concur with Darren though, any car is unreliable if you don't put the maintenance to it and do hack-job style fixes/installs. There are MANY turbo production cars out there and yet our cars get the "unreliable" brand? It's quite possibly due to the fact that the newest 2G is 10 years old!

And yet you don't see people rushing out to buy a turbo Daytona, Ford Probe GT, Turbo Shadows or MR-2's do you? No. Because the DSM is a highly modifiable, high horsepower OOTB, AWD platform with a motor that can handle 500WHP with only bolt-ons.

All you are doing is increasing the stress on major components. Do this to any vehicle, things WILL break. You can rag on Honda owners for snapping axles all the time or destroying transmissions, does that make a Honda unreliable?

Kobie, it's a constant battle. I love my 2GNT, and I receive flak for it all the time. We're not able to make the same power, but I love it all the same. Sure, there are times I wish that I had bought a TSi before a 2GNT, but that's long past.

An N/T vehicle will be just as unreliable as a turbo vehicle if improperly taken care of.

My 94 TSI has been more reliable than my 95 N/T. And a ton more fun. I never like when someone says the turbo dsms are un-reliable. People just abuse them to hell for their entire life.

An N/T vehicle will be just as unreliable as a turbo vehicle if improperly taken care of.

My 94 TSI has been more reliable than my 95 N/T. And a ton more fun. I never like when someone says the turbo dsms are un-reliable. People just abuse them to hell for their entire life. [/quote]

Here here, Take care of your car and I think you would be surprise. My last talon I had for 2.5+ years Tranny blew cause I didnt tighten the nut, despite Rob S. Teachings. Timing went before I bothered to switch it and was not a mitsu belt. Its outlasted a couple of my friends civics they drive. =] Yes they beat the crap out of them. But no one can say I was easy on my talon either. Its all in how you take care of your car for me.

It does pay of to be anal sometimes. =]

Here's some food for thought. I plan on building my car N/T, but with parts athat cross the threshhold into turbo land. Forged 2.3 stroker 9.0cr, a spare head that I'm building, uprated oil pump (if I can find one), ACL bearings, ARP fasteners, etc....

When I'm done, and I get the car tuned on a turbo ECU and MAF w/ GM MAF-T and AEM EMS. The car will make some good power, and if I chose to do so, I could always do a turbo conversion, and the car could take it. But the car would hold it's own in N/T form.

And considering that I'm not looking to use anything bigger than a 20G, we won't be talking about a hard to drive N/T setup (well, that depends on your definition of hard to drive).

Edit: I forgot to mention that I'm driving a 93 2.0L N/T

You really should be doing a lil more research!

I think on a FWD the stock 14b should be harder to drive than 20g or bigger. Think about it.. You are spooling sooner = more wheel spin off the line. The bigger turbos don't even make any boost at a stand still. Mine doesn't and I can totally cook my tires (well, one tire) with the stock displacement, stroke and 9:1 CR