I just measured about ~70.2mm. I will double check that again.

Good thing I double checked. The actual measured diameter I am getting on the rotor I have is 71.17~71.22mm (approx 2.800").

So I little under that should work.

Ok, I will get these done, but can't promise for before the weekend..hope that is OK?? So, to confirm, I am doing 2.795 - 2.799OD, 2.640 - 2.645 ID, and .190 - .200 thick??

I just measured the Cobra rotor thickness there at 7.22mm (0.2845"). So 0.200" would fit no problem.

so should I make them a little wider? Maybe .25?

.200 wide is fine. The hub has a radius that prevents the ring from going flush with the face and it will stick out another .100" or so. If it's any wider it will start to interfere with the wheel mounting.

They must be using a step in the hub, one diameter for the rotor and one for the wheel. I just KNEW it was 2.8" hehe.

Just to "jump in" about other options:

What options are there that fit under a stock 1G 16" rim.

If I stick with those wheels, am I limited to the stock dual-piston calipers/rotors?

I've got nothing that will fit the stock 16's. Stock dual piston is where it's at for you, with some good pads.

Thanks, Nick. I found an old post of yours saying the same thing, so they're already on there.

I REALLY need to replace that 13/16" master though. Would a 15/16" be worth putting in? (I've got one sitting in the garage) Or should I just get the 1" ?

this is what i got and they work awsome

The non-ABS cars have 15/16, and the ABS cars have 1". I don't know where the 13/16" comes from. Of course, i don't have CAPS running, and i've had a lot of wine

The 3G Eclipse uses a 17/16 and it bolts up to the booster. You'll have to make new lines to the prop. valve though, but it's not hard. I put one in when i went to the Porsche brembos.

The larger master will make the pedal stiffer, and reduce the travel required. You'll be pressing harder, but the pedal will move less. With the 17/16 and the Brembos (which are super stiff calipers) the pedal is rock solid. Once the pads touch the rotors it barely moves at all no matter how hard you push. It makes blipping the throttle with the side of the foot under brakin verhy consistent because the two pedals are always in the same spot relative to eachother.

www.car-part.com to search wreckers for them.

I haven't actually LOOKED yet (I've never take it out of the car) but I believe 90's came with a 13/16.

Looking at caps, the 89.3-90.6 cars DO have a seperate PN for the master.

I'll try the 15/16" and see how I like it.

The pedal travel is what I DON'T like, with the way it currently is.

Dodge Stealth w/ ABS have a 1.25" Master Cylinder and a 1" on Non ABS cars I have ran one for years the lines are slightly different and the bottle mounts on the MC not remote like a T/E/L 13/16" come on colts/summmit vans

The 3G eclipse reservoir is attached to the master as well.

Turns out my car came with a 15/16" master, so I can't confirm that the 13/16" were ever put on early models.

(Luckily I used a mirror, instead of removing it to find out!)

So, looks like I might try to squish in a 17/16" afterall.

No squishing required. It bolts right in, you just have to make up new lines to go from the master to the proportioning valve.

Finally installing these. Nick you said keep the right bracket on the right and the left bracket on the left but switch the calipers right?

Should the calipers sit higher or lower in the arc then the stock ones?

Also what should I do with the dust sheild. Is it okay just to remove it?

Actually I think on the safety form for the track it said "Dust sheild cut or removed." Does that mean they want it removed or I fail if it's removed?

Can someone who's done this mod dumb it down for me.

First off the spacer Nick mentioned needs to go between the two brackets is it really 0.4"... that's 10mm. That seems big to me. If that is right am I suppose to just use a bunch of washers?

Next could someone explain how the brackets go on. I go the pins at the top, bleeder at the top part.

1) So does the Boer's bracket adapter bolt to the back side or the rotor side?
2) Once that's in place does the caliper bracket go on the back side of it or the rotor side of it?

FYI you will need to buy 8 M12 bolts to bolt the brackets up.

Any help would be appreciated. I am also taking some pics to help anyone else through the process. Quick responses would be great as I need this installed asap.

Yes its 10mm, basically 4 thick washers.

1. back side
2. forgot, but when you put the rotor on it can only go on one way

Here are some pics to help you out.

Damn Dave that's perfect thanks. I was searching Talk and Tuners too trying to find a pic.

The Cobra backets then would go front side of the Boer's bracket.

The brakes will be on tonight .

FYI though it looks like the above pic has the caliper on the wrong side of the car. Pin and bleeder should both be at the top.

Well the calipers and rotors are on. I got 20 thick washers and had 8 ~1mm thin ones that I bought last night. To get the bracket centered on the rotors was a bit tricky. When adding the washers I had to try differnt combinations of washers to get bracket centered over the rotor.

I think both top ones were 4 thick washers but the drivers side low was 3 thick washers while the passenger side low was 3 thick 4 thin.

Anyway it all looks good now. After work I will remove the stock calipers and lines and install the stainless lines.

Anyone wany to recommend a good fluid? I bought a bottle of the Ford DOT 3 550 stuff.

sounds like those spacers fit OK for the rotors??

Spacers were absolutely perfect . I just pressed them on the hub with my fingers then I had to lightly easy them back all the way by lightly tapping around it with a screw driver and small hammer. Nice tight fit. I put the rotors on and again it was a nice tight fit. Perfecto.

cool..that is what I like to hear

Goodrich lines were great too. They are DOT approved, lengths and fittings were perfect and they even came with all new hardware (clips crush washers and banjo bolts).

I finished installing everything and just bedded in the pads. These things can lock up my tires no problem . I'll post pics when I get a chance.

The pad surface area doesn't look any bigger then the 2G pad areas. Also the calipers arean't much bigger. But it looks like the main gains are a much larger rotor to disipate the heat and the fact that the clamping force has been moved much further from the center of the wheel.

They also fill in the wheel much better then the stock setup. It no longer looks under braked .

The Hawk HP Plus (not HPS) bite great but do squeal a little. I forgot to use any smurf juice so that might be why. I'll probably pull them off and goop them if it bugs me too much.

Aww yours dont say cobra, send them back!

Mike,

really contact spot and heat dissipation area is all that matters. Specially heat dissipation area.

I figured when I painted my rotors even without cleaing them or anything(read HALF ASS), they stayed clean(no rust) for much longer. if you use high temp paint, it might stay nonrusty for a while?


do you have clipers you want to sell now?

Note: The pads look like it doesn't matter which ones go where (outter left could go inner right and still fit) but it does matter. On the outter ones there is a rivet holding on one of the clip springs and there is a recess in the caliper for these. If you put the on wrong the rivet will be pushing into the cyliner and boot.


I love that they aren't marked Cobra actually. They are nice and stealthy .

What are you doing with your old set?

Which crank pulley are you running btw?
I thought undamped were a no-no ?

Thanks

Sorry guys the old brakes are spoken for.

I think it's an unorthadox pulley. It was put on 2 owners ago so it wasn't my choice. I too have read about bad effects from an undamped pulley but don't know for sure.

Okay, looking on the DSM talk boards, as well as others, I have never seen this setup before!! I have been looking for a Big Brake upgrade since I autox the car, and the factory brakes fade too quickly, even being cross drilled and slotted. Where can I find this magickal set up?

Just to follow up on my pedal problems..

I've finally finished replacing the old, rubber lines with SS braided ones, and upgraded the brake master from a 15/16" to a 1".

Pedal feel has GREATLY improved.