Hi guys,

My oil return line is leaking.

Any suggestions on what kind of line to use other than the 1G oil return line for $120 new?

If not, then that's my solution.

Turbo is on a 2G 7bolt motor with an FP exhaust manifold.

Not sure what else is relevant here.

Is it a hard line?

Check the gaskets and tighten the bolts. Unless the line is compromised..?

I have a coated 1g oil line, looks like brand new. It's yours for cheap.

Cut the flex section out where it is leaking. Go to crappy tire or the junkyard, find a piece of hose that will fit in place of the cut out flex section and clamp it with two worm clamps. Stronger than OEM and problem solved

$0 solution if you have the parts laying around in your garage. I ran like this for years until I went bigger turbo and braided lines.

Thanks fellas, I'll check the line tonight, and see if I can tighten the bolts.

The two bolts going to the oil pan need to be flanged and need crush washers. Common area people overlook as well.

Thanks

My 6 bolt N/A oil pan of course didn't have the inlet for the oil return but it did have the same mold as the turbo model. I matched the port size for flange with a drill and drilled out two bolt holes for m6 hardware, using flat and split lock washers to secure the flange which also has a gasket in between it. It will never leak. Unless I take a good hit on the pan from road debris..

Majority of the time, oil leaks at the turbo oil return flange and not at the pan in my experience. And this is easy to diagnose Mike. Just get a flash light, under the front end of your car, and have a peek.

You're return line is leaking? I've never in all my time had one that didn't leak. I've accepted that as a necessary evil until I can get an -AN bung welded. haha

I wont install the oil pan flange bolts with out white thread sealant. Dosent leak at all

I think you're referring to Teflon tape.

Also not a bad idea.

There's actual oem sealing washers for those bolts.

You guys are DSM hacks

All you need is a gasket, two flanged bolts, and two crush washers. No RTV is required at all in this area. Although I am on AN lines no, the flange for it still uses two flanged bolts with crush washers.

I can't remember the last time I had a leak in this area.
I think crush washers have been mentioned several times, but for some odd reason, people still won't use them

Yeah, proper washers with the right bolts and the OEM gasket and it will be a tight seal.

Also the method Reza suggested by cutting the stock accordion and replacing it with hose works great. I did that on my previous DSM's, hell that's how the turbo return on my Elantra was run as well.

No leaks.

I don't think most people are leaking out of the threads - I thought they were having seepage from around the flange...but yes, people should definitely use these washers. They're functional and super cheap too.

Every dsm Ive owned, ive just cut the accordian pipe off and used the ends and a hose.

I have only bought crush washers once.. And After reusing them 3 times and then they start leaking... I swore I'd never buy them again. Now I use the white thread sealant... In a tube. And leave the flanged ends bolted to the pan. I remove the hose when removing the turbo from the pan.

Crush washers aren't meant to be reused...

But I hear ya. An extra $1.50 every time you pull your turbo return off the pan? Way too expensive!!

Less than $5 for an OEM gasket and washers to do it properly. Why screw around?