K guys I bought some Mobil 1 10w30 but im not sure if thats going to be good anough. Not sure if engine was running synthetic before or what. Compression was 152~ 6 bolt engine. Should I use 10w30 or the 15w50 ?

Use only the oil weight which is recommended in your owners manual.
That should be 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter.

Since you don't know what was in there before, my suggestion would be to use Castrol GTX instead of a full synthetic. You'll save money, and there's less a chance of leaks in case there is some gunk that is holding your seals together right now - that gets washed away with synthetic.

what weight of GTX?

So full synthetic only good after full rebuild ?

Yes but you also need to break in a new motor with conventional!

If conventional oil were changed regularly, synthetic might still be fine - but I'm inclined to just use conventional anyways and change it frequently. On an unknown motor that would be the safe choice.

As stated, just stick with 10W30 conventional "dino" oil and you'll be fine. I still run conventional oil at my power levels. Synthetic has it's advantages, but here in the US sythetic oils aren't even really "synthetic" anymore. Not sure about Canadia.

Typically it's the additives / friction modifiers that are the first things to break down in the oil, and is what deems oil to be changed for the most part. Not the base oil.

That's just my opinion on the subject.

So use normal 10w30 and change it every 2000km-3000km then.

^^ yup.

castrol 10w30 for me... need to find a better source for filters though myself, dealership isn't getting it and the lack of knowledge on them from my end hinders me to find a good source of them...

Napa?

If you want them from a dealer just ask for FE229. That is the Mopar # for them.

In the haynes manual it says
10w 30 good for - -30 to +5 (joins 10w 40 on the chart)
10w 40 good for - 0 to +40 (Joins 10w 30 on the chart)
20w 40 good for - -20/-25 to +40
30 good for - -10/-15 to +40
I use 15w 40 myself, I used to ue 10w 30, but found every car I had had a lifter tick, so went to 15w 40, and haven't heard a tick since

On my TSI AWD, I used 20w50 castrol GTX in the summer, then 5w30 in the winter. Never had a problem.

I know my MR2 is running some synthetic Royal Purple oil, so I'm sure that will cost me an arm in a leg to keep using

Only problem is their only open until 5 and I work 9-5, can't really justify driving accross town, spending $10 in gas for a $7 filter haha...

Hmm might consider moving to a 15w 40 after what I am reading here, I should be fine with a 10w30 though right and get the normal tick at start up?

Right from the Chrysler service manual. -23c to over +50c = 10w30,
+16c and below = 5w30, 0c to over +50c = 20w40. 10w30 and a Mopar filter has always done me well so I will stick with it myself.

Napa Gold = WIX = OEM. WIX makes a decent filter. I only run WIX on my DSM. So if you are having a hard time getting to the dealer to get an OEM filter, just go to your local Napa, and pick up one of their Napa Gold filters, or any other auto parts store and get a WIX. They're all the same thing.

If you think you want a Fram filter, do some research on the net before buying a Fram. One of the most poor filters out there in my opinion.

Also, you guys change your oil ever 2000 -3000 km's? Holy crap, that's less than 2000 miles. That is insane. Here they typically recommend 3000mile intervals, which is becoming widely recongnized as over kill. I run my Daily Driver turbo Saab on Walmart SuperTech 10w30 conventional oil, and a Walmart SuperTech filter to 7000miles (11000km).

conventional oil is dirt cheap so why not put some nice fresh oil in

The oil gets dirty faster with a turbo - there is no way to prevent some blow-by (due to high cylinder pressures) which deposits gasoline into the oil to eat away at the bearings.

So going for a long change interval (a top benefit of synthetic) isn't really an option for a turbo DSM. I think Amsoil says on the bottle of their turbo oil that eventhough it's full synthetic, it's only good for 5000km in turbocharged applications.
This is why I only use dyno. I want it clean and often, without the cost.

If the car is trailer-queen, get the good stuff

Anyone know what is apparently so good about Royal Purple oil?

Royal Purple, like Amsoi and Redline, typically have better additive packages. Again, the additives are what are important. ASE certification that a lot of the off-the-shelf brands like Mobil and Valvoline, restrict the kinds of additives that can be used. Since Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline, etc don't go through it, they can use other additives which is typically what makes them better. I also believe that they may be real synthetics, unlike Mobil, Valvoline, Castrol, etc SAE synthetics here in the states which aren't real synthetic, but not 100% sure on that.