I'm doing a trans rebuild right now and have run into a pretty big problem. I know most of you guys have never opened up, let alone rebuilt a transmission but I had the bright idea to do it.

Everything went well. All the parts fit together properly and within clearances. I clearanced the shims with the crush solder method and everything came out consistant and happy. My results were:

1. Front Diff - 1.43mm
2. Front/Center Output Shaft - 1.69mm
3. Center Diff Housing - 1.64mm
4. Intermediate Shaft - 1.22mm
5. Input Shaft - 1.33mm

Each shaft has it's own designated clearances or preloads so I simply added or subtracted the limits to the solder thickness' and came up with these shim sizes.

1. Front Diff - 1.38mm
2. Front/Center Output Shaft - 1.77mm
3. Center Diff Housing - 1.56mm
4. Intermediate Shaft - 1.30mm
5. Input Shaft - 1.33mm

I went to put the transmission together today and upon placing the first two cases together, I ran into a big problem. The tighter I tightened the bolts for the case, the harder the front/center output shaft gets to turn until it totally binds up and locks itself in the case.

Can someone who has experience with this type of thing give me some pointers as to where to look for my answers? I re-clearanced the transmission and came up with near identical results so I'm literally lost.

Update: I just re-shimmed the center/front output shaft and attempted to turn the shaft and it's locked with the crushed solder in there. Obviously the crushed solder is too thick. How can this be? I'm using 3mm plumbing solder, which is recommended for this rebuild.

you don't plan on leaving the solder in there do you? solder is to be measure to determine the desired thickness.

you could run the shims that came with the case, but they might be a little too thin. You may want to get slightly thicker ones. It's suppose to be a little on the tight side.

The dealer supplies them, each thickness has a different part number.

Hello Tim.

Did you replace any Gears??? If that is the case you might of install non compatible Gears.

As for the solder; try using the thinner stuff for the "center/front output shaft".

I also do the solder shim test in two step. I start with the Lower two Case and leave the Gears/Center Diff out and do them on a second shim test. That might help to pinpoint the cause of your binding.

Hope this helps.

Ghilsain.

Hey Tim,
When you say plumbers solder, I assume you mean the solid solder. Try using rosin core solder instead. The solid stuff takes a lot of force to crush and throws off your numbers. Also like Ghislain says, size the solder diameter for the expected clearance. If you expect the shim to be less than 0.06", use 1/16" rosin core solder. I think I managed to find some 0.09" solder for the sizes that end up right at 0.06".

Let us know how you make out!

When I rebuild a tractor tranny, you assemble the tranny without any shims. Then you check side play, end play etc on your shafts. That'll tell you what shims to use. I'm not sure if that's possible on a dsm tranny though as I don't think there're any inspection plates

I just re-used the exact same shims that where in there, no problems for two years, but I stopped driving that car.

Yes, reusing the same Shims is more than often what is needed but checking the clearences is not a bad thing to do.

I would say recheck everything with smaller solder and see what kind of measurements you get.

Ghislain.

Well I just re-clearanced the front/center output shaft with 2.5mm rosen core solder. With the case tight, the shaft turns very smoothly. In the end, I came up with 1.52mm which is way different than 1.69mm which is a difference of approx 0.007".

The service manual shows 0.08-0.13mm of preload for this bearing. The closest shim will give me about 0.03mm of preload. Such is life. This thing is going back together one way or another so I can get my car going.